WEIGHT PULL TRAINING PART I

 BY

MARK LANDERS

  WHEN I SAT DOWN TO WRITE THIS ARTICLE I THOUGHT, HOW DO I TAKE A FAIRLY COMPLICATED SUBJECT LIKE TAKING A PUPPY OR YOUNG DOG AND TEACHING SOMEONE TO TRAIN IT HOW TO PULL. THEN I THOUGHT, SIMPLY GO THROUGH THE SAME SIMPLE STEPS THAT I GO THROUGH WHEN I START A DOG.

  FIRST LET ME GIVE SOME BACKGROUND ON HOW I GOT INVOLVED IN WEIGHT PULLING. MY FIRST EXPERIENCE WITH ANY WEIGHT PULLING AT ALL WAS WATCHING AN ADBA WEIGHT PULL HERE IN DENVER IN 1984. I HAD BEEN SHOWING MY DOGS WITH SOME SUCCESS, BUT MORE FAILURE. TOO FAT, TOO SKINNY, TOO SQUAT, BAD BITE! THE GENERAL THING YOU HEAR WHEN YOU HAVE HUMAN JUDGMENT INVOLVED. THEN I SAW THE WEIGHT PULLING. I LIFT WEIGHTS. I FEEL BETTER AND LOOK BETTER WHEN I LIFT, AND I AM A LOT STRONGER NOW THAN I WAS WHEN I STARTED. OBVIOUSLY A POSITIVE ENDEAVOR. PLUS, A DOG WILL EITHER PULL THE WEIGHT OR NOT PULL THE WEIGHT. THERE ARE NO DIFFERING OPINIONS OR JUDGMENT CALLS.

  MY FIRST MISTAKE WAS FOLLOWING THE LEADERS, WHICH MEANT BAITING YOUR DOG. YOU SEE, MOST OF THE PEOPLE IN COLORADO AT THAT TIME PULLING THEIR PITS WERE BAITING THEM. THEY USED HIDES, TOYS OR WHATEVER THEIR DOG WOULD GO AFTER. BASICALLY STIMULATING THEIR PREY DRIVE. THIS DID NOT TEACH THE DOG TO PULL, BUT FRUSTRATED THE DOG ENOUGH TO DO WHATEVER HE HAD TO IN ORDER TO GET HIS OBJECT OR PREY! AT THAT TIME I HAD A HOUSE DOG NAMED MAX. HE WAS A JIMMY BOOTS BRED DOG THAT I HAD TAKEN THROUGH AN OBEDIENCE COURSE. WE BOTH LEARNED ALOT. HE WAS A VERY SMART DOG. I WAS VERY SURPRISED HOW EASY IT WAS TO TEACH A DOG SOMETHING WITH PRAISE AND REWARD.

  ANYWAY, BACK TO MY MISTAKE. I HAD A LITTLE BLACK BITCH IN MY YARD THAT WAS AN INBRED BAD COMPANY DOG. SHE WAS TWO TIMES GAMEY AND TEN TIMES NUTS! SHE WOULD DO ANYTHING TO GET AT HER TOYS (TIRE OR HULA HOOP). SO SIMPLE ENOUGH. PUT ON HER HARNESS, HOOK UP SOME WEIGHT, AND LET HER "GET" HER TOYS. OH BOY! SUCCESS! SHE WON A FEW PULLS. TOOK SOME TROPHIES FOR PERCENTAGE. I STARTED GREAT, BUT THERE WAS ONE SLIGHT PROBLEM. WHEN THE WEIGHT ON THE CART GOT CONTINUOUSLY HEAVIER AND HEAVIER, SHE COULDN'T PULL IT. NO MATTER HOW SHE JUMPED, BARKED, OR FLAT OUT STRUGGLED, SHE COULD NOT GET HER TOYS. SHE BECAME FRUSTRATED! THAT MEANT SNAPPING AT THE AIR, THE CART BOYS, THE JUDGES AND FINALLY AT ME. I HAD NOT TAUGHT THIS DOG TO PULL. I HAD TEASED IT'S NATURAL PREY DRIVE.  

DOGS IN THE WILD LEARN BY MANY THINGS. BUT, FOOD IS A GREAT THING COMBINED WITH PRAISE AND REPETITION. ANYHOW, AT THAT TIME I HAD NO IDEA WHAT I'M TELLING YOU NOW.

 I HAVE SINCE GONE ON TO PRODUCE SEVERAL GOOD PULLING DOGS, AND THREE IWPA INTERNATIONAL WEIGHT PULLING MEDALISTS. THE ABOVE MENTIONED ORGANIZATION IS AN ALL BREED, PURE BRED OR OTHERWISE, WEIGHT PULLING ORGANIZATION. IT IS PRIMARILY BASED IN THE WEST AND NORTH WEST UNITED STATES. IT ALSO HAS BRANCHES THROUGH OUT THE CONTINENTAL U.S. AND CANADA. IT HAS SIX DIFFERENT WEIGHT CLASSES: 35 LB. & UNDER, 35‑60 LB., 60‑80 LB., 80‑100 LB., 100‑120 LB., AND 120 LB. AND ABOVE. YOU WILL SEE EVERYTHING FROM LITTLE JACK RUSSELL TERRIERS TO 140 LB. ST. BERNARD'S. THE TYPE OF CART USED IS A WHEELED CONTRAPTION THAT CAN BE CONVERTED TO A SLED FOR WINTER (SNOW) PULLS.

  THE RULES FOR THE IWPA ARE SIMPLE. THE DOGS MUST PULL THE WHEELED CART OR SNOW SLED, 16 FEET IN 60 SECONDS OR LESS, NO FOULS. HANDLERS MUST STAND BEHIND THE CARTS FIRST WHEEL OR BEHIND THE FINISH LINE.

  AT THE TIME I STARTED PULLING, COLORADO HAD VERY FEW ADBA PULLS EVERY YEAR. SO, I WAS REAL INTERESTED IN GETTING INVOLVED WITH THE ALL BREED PULLING. PLUS, IN THIS AREA THERE ARE SEVERAL EVERY YEAR. BUT, THERE WAS ONE PROBLEM. NO BAITING. AT THIS TIME I STARTED A TRAINING PROGRAM THAT HAS PROVEN TO BE VERY SUCCESSFUL. I USED WHAT I HAS LEARNED IN MY BASIC OBEDIENCE CLASSED TO TEACH MYSELF HOW TO TRAIN MY DOGS TO PULL WEIGHT ON COMMAND.

  LET ME START OUT WITH A FEW KEY POINTS. FIRST AND FOREMOST, YOU AS THE TEACHER MUST BE PATIENT AND REASSURING TO YOUR PUPIL. THE DOG YOU ARE WORKING WITH MAY BE A NATURAL. HE OR SHE MIGHT PULL LIKE A MAC TRUCK. BUT, CHANCES ARE, IF YOU ASK TOO MUCH TOO SOON, YOU WILL CONFUSE THE ANIMAL AND FRUSTRATE YOURSELF.

  SECONDLY, A DOG THAT WON'T EVEN WALK ON A LEASH OR COME TO YOU WHEN CALLED NEEDS SOME BASIC OBEDIENCE WORK. THERE ARE SCORES OF BOOKS AND PLENTY OF REPUTABLE OBEDIENCE CLASSES IN YOUR AREA. CHECK THE YELLOW PAGES.

  THERE ARE SEVERAL DIFFERENT CONDITIONING METHODS TO GET A DOG IN SHAPE FOR PULLING. THE METHOD I PRIMARILY USE WAS TAUGHT TO ME BY A GOOD FRIEND OF MINE, EDGAR EDDINGTON FROM TULSA. TO PUT IT SIMPLY WE CALL IT "DRAG WEIGHTING". THIS CONSIST OF GOING ON 1/2 TO 2 MILE WALKS WITH YOUR DOG DRAGGING WEIGHTS BEHIND IT. NOW LET ME SAY IN THE BEGINNING, YOU NEED TO DO EVERYTHING STEP BY STEP IN INCREMENTS. FOR EXAMPLE: I HAVE A 60 LB. BITCH THAT CAN DRAG 80 - 90 LBS. FOR TWO MILES ON A WARM DAY. OBVIOUSLY I HAD TO SLOWLY BUILD HER UP TO THIS. SHE IS ALSO UNDEFEATED IN THE IWPA PULLS AS A RESULT!  

LET'S GO OVER THE BASIC EQUIPMENT NEEDS. YOU WILL NEED A PROPER FITTING HARNESS, A COLLAR, A LEAD (6 FT AND 16 FT) AND A WHOLE BUNCH OF PATIENCE! FOR THE DRAGGING WEIGHT, YOU CAN USE A TIRE WITH ROCKS IN IT. BUT, THE IDEAL THING ARE WINDOW WEIGHTS ATTACHED TO A TOW CHAIN. WINDOW WEIGHTS ARE FOOT LONG, TORPEDO 

 SHAPED WEIGHTS THAT RANGE FROM 3 LBS. UP TO 15 LBS. THEREFORE, MAKING THE INCREMENTAL INCREASES EASILY. THEY HAVE AN OPEN END WHERE YOU CAN ATTACH A HOOK TO THE WEIGHT AND THEN ATTACH THE WEIGHTS TO THE CHAIN. BECAUSE OF THEIR OBLONG SHAPE THEY DON'T GET CAUGHT IN SHRUBS OR BOGGED DOWN IN SAND. YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO FIND THESE WEIGHTS AT MOST JUNKYARDS. THEY ARE ACTUALLY THE OLD COUNTER WEIGHTS USED IN WINDOW FRAMES OF OLDER HOMES.

  THE FIRST THING YOU NEED TO DO IS INTRODUCE YOUR PUPPY OR DOG TO THE HARNESS. THAT'S RIGHT. I DID SAY PUPPY. YOU ARE GOING TO GRADUALLY BUILD YOUR PUP UP TO PULLING HEAVY WEIGHTS. DON'T START HEAVY! BESIDES, YOU ARE TRYING TO TEACH YOUR DOG TO PULL, NOT FORCE IT. IF YOUR PUPPY HAS NO AILMENTS AND IS HEALTHY, THERE IS NO REASON NOT TO INTRODUCE IT TO THE HARNESS AND LIGHT DRAGGING. START OUT BY PUTTING THE DOG IN THE HARNESS FOR SHORT PERIODS OF TIME, SAY 15‑30 MINUTES. PLAY WITH THE DOG WHILE HE IS IN THE HARNESS. MAKE HIM FEEL THAT PULLING TIME IS FUN TIME. WALK HIM AT YOUR SIDE, BACK AND FORTH ACROSS YOUR YARD. AT THE END OF CERTAIN DISTANCES. 20‑30 FEET, STOP AND PRAISE YOUR DOG. DO THIS SEVERAL TIMES FOR ABOUT A WEEK. THEN TAKE THE DOG ON A 1 OR 2 MILE WALK. LET HIM WANDER A LITTLE, THEN CALL HIM BACK TO YOU. AGAIN, PRAISE HIM. NOW BEFORE YOU START TO CONTINUE YOUR WALK, PAT YOUR LEG AND INTRODUCE A WORD. SAY "WORK", "PULL", OR "PEANUT BUTTER". IT DOESN'T MATTER WHAT WORD YOU USE. THIS WILL BE THE WORD THAT YOU WANT THE DOG TO RESPOND TO. BUT, WHATEVER WORD YOU USE, STICK WITH IT. DON'T CHANGE COMMANDS. IT WILL ONLY CONFUSE THE DOG, AND BE LESS LIKELY TO IMPRINT IN THE DOGS HEAD. YOU ARE GOING TO USE THIS WORD HUNDREDS OF TIMES, UNTIL IT BECOMES SECOND NATURE TO THE DOG. AS YOUR DOG MOVES FORWARD WITH YOU, PAT YOUR LEG REPEATING THE COMMAND. THEN WITHOUT STOPPING YOUR WALK, PRAISE THE DOG. DO THIS SEVERAL TIMES, STOPPING AND STARTING. IF YOU ARE IN AN AREA WHERE THE LEASH MUST BE ON, THAT'S FINE. JUST REMEMBER THAT EACH TIME YOU STOP, YOU START UP AGAIN WITH YOUR COMMAND. REMEMBER, YOUR DOG IS IN A HARNESS, BUT NO WEIGHT IS BEING USED. WE ARE JUST GETTING HIM USE TO STARTING AND STOPPING WITH THE HARNESS ON. AT THE END OF SEVERAL WALKS, SAY A WEEKS WORTH, IT'S TIME TO GO BACK TO THE YARD AND PUT SOME WEIGHT ON. A GOOD TIME TO DO THIS IS AT FEEDING TIME. I DON'T FREE FEED MY WORKING PUPS. I USE FOOD TO HELP THE PUP UNDERSTAND HE'S DONE SOMETHING GOOD. THIS ALSO INSURES SOLID IMPRINTING. SIMPLY ACT LIKE YOU HAVE ALL WEEK. PUT THE HARNESS ON AND PLAY FOR A LITTLE BIT. GO OUT TO YOUR YARD ALL THE TIME BEING HAPPY AND POSITIVE. EVERYTHING SHOULD BE DONE IN SMALL STEPS, WITH THE END GOAL BEING A WEIGHT PULL TEAM. HAVE YOUR LIGHT WINDOW WEIGHT, OR TIRE, OR MILK JUG AT ONE END OF YOUR YARD. IT SHOULD BE A VERY LITTLE WEIGHT, 5-10 LBS. IS PLENTY. THERE IS A GOOD CHANCE THAT IF YOUR DOG HAS HAD FUN DURING YOUR LAST WEEK OF WORK, HE'LL RUN TO YOU LIKE THERE IS NOTHING ON IT. YOU DO NOT WANT TO SCARE HIM AT THIS POINT. IT IS CRITICAL YOU GO EASY THE NEXT MONTH OR SO. ATTACH THE WEIGHT TO THE HARNESS, KEEPING YOUR DOG AT YOUR SIDE. GIVE YOUR COMMAND AND MOVE FORWARD SLOWLY. AT THE SAME TIME PATTING YOUR LEG. JUST THE WAY YOU DID THE WEEK PRIOR. IT IS NORMAL FOR YOUR PUP TO LOOK BEHIND HIM, OR TO SPEED UP A LITTLE.

 REASSURE HIM AND USE YOUR COMMAND AGAIN. WALK YOUR 20‑30 FEET. STOP, PRAISE HIM AND GIVE HIM A PIECE OF FOOD. IF THE PUP DOES NOT MOVE WITH THE LIGHT WEIGHT ON, PUT THE LEASH ON THE COLLAR AND GIVE HIM A LIGHT TUG. "WORK, GOOD BOY WORK." DON'T GET UPSET IF THE DOG ACTS SCARED OR TRIES TO PULL AWAY. JUST TAKE IT SLOW AND REASSURE HIM THAT EVERYTHING IS OK.

I MUST REEMPHASIZE, THIS IS A KEY TIME IN YOUR PULL DOG TRAINING. YOU MUST DO EVERYTHING IN A SYSTEMATIC, STEP BY STEP SLOW PROCESS. ALWAYS KEEPING PATIENT. IF YOU FORCE YOUR DOG NOW, YOU MIGHT END UP WITH A DOG THAT WILL PULL, BUT TOTALLY OUT OF FEAR. IF YOUR FIRST WEEK OF NO WEIGHT HARNESS WALKING HAS GONE WELL, YOUR DOG WILL PROBABLY PULL THE LIGHT DRAG WEIGHT EASILY. YOUR NATURAL INCLINATION WILL BE TO ADD MORE WEIGHT TO "SEE WHAT HE CAN DO." DON'T BE DUMB. THE WHOLE IDEAS HERE IS THAT IF YOU SLOWLY BUILD YOUR DOG UP IN WEIGHT HE WILL NEVER QUIT WITH A WEIGHT HE CAN PHYSICALLY PULL. DON'T DO ANY MORE THAN ABOUT 10 OR SO BACK AND FORTHS ACROSS THE YARD. REMEMBER, ONLY USE THE COMMAND WORD. DON'T TALK IN SENTENCES. WHEN YOU COME TO THE STOP (20‑30 FT.), GIVE THE DOG A TREAT AND VERBAL PRAISE. THE EARLY TRAINING TREATS ENCOURAGE THE BEHAVIOR AND IMPRINT THE COMMAND IN THE DOG. LATER, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO WEAN THE PUP OR DOG OFF TREATS WITH NO PROBLEM. AGAIN, DO THIS FOR A WEEK OR SO AT FEEDING TIME. NEVER MORE THAN DOUBLING THE WEIGHT YOU STARTED WITH. GO SLOW. BE PATIENT. MAKE IT FUN. AT THE END OF YOUR TRAINING SESSION FEED THE DOG HIS NORMAL MEAL. YOU WILL BE ASTOUNDED HOW QUICK THE PROGRESS IS. AFTER THE FIRST WEEK OF BACK AND FORTHS, THE LIGHT DRAG WEIGHT SHOULD NOT BE THAT NOTICEABLE TO YOUR PUP.

NOW IT IS TIME TO START GOING ON YOUR WALKS AGAIN. I DID NOT MENTION THIS EARLIER BUT NEVER DRAG WEIGHT YOUR DOG ON CEMENT OR PAVEMENT. FIND A GRASS OR DIRT FIELD. THE COURSE I USE IS FULL OF LOW HILLS AND DIPS, WHICH IS GREAT FOR CONDITIONING. ON YOUR WALKS, YOU SHOULD BE USING A VERY LIGHT WEIGHT. IF YOU HAVE DOUBLED YOUR WEIGHT ON YOUR BACK AND FORTHS, GO BACK DOWN TO YOUR BEGINNING WEIGHT FOR YOU WALKS. YOU WANT TO HAVE YOUR PUP KEEP UP WITH YOU. DON'T GO MORE THAN 1/2 MILE YOUR FIRST FEW WALKS, AND MAKE SURE IT'S NOT TOO HOT OUT. YOU CAN ALSO DO YOUR BACK AND FORTHS ON YOUR WALK, ALWAYS USING YOUR COMMAND. YOU CAN ALSO PLAY A GAME OF SIT AND STAY. BACK AWAY 20 FEET, GIVE THE COMMAND, AND GIVE HIM A TREAT WHEN HE COMES TO YOU.  

WHAT WE HAVE DONE IN THE PAST FEW WEEKS IS TWOFOLD. WE STARTED TO TEACH OUR DOGS TO PULL ON COMMAND, AND TO CONDITION THEM INTO PULLING DOGS. BUILD YOUR DOG UP SLOWLY ON HIS BACK AND FORTHS AND HIS WALKS. KEEP IT FUN. DON'T BE IMPATIENT, OR TRY TOO MUCH TOO SOON. I LIKE TO DRAG WEIGHT EVERY OTHER DAY FOR OUT OF SHAPE DOGS OR PUPPIES. BUT, EXPERIENCED DOGS IN COMPETITION I WILL WORK DAILY. WORK YOUR DOG CONSISTENTLY, AND YOU WILL HAVE A CHAMP. THIS IS HOW I DID IT.

WEIGHT PULL TRAINING PART II

by MARK LANDERS

  JUST TO RECAP WHERE WE LEFT OFF. IF YOU HAVE KEPT YOUR PATIENCE YOU SHOULD BE SEEING SOME GOOD RESULTS WITH YOUR "BACK AND FORTHS" AND YOUR DRAG WEIGHT WALKS. AS I WRITE THIS ARTICLE, I MYSELF HAVE BEEN WORKING SEVERAL "NEW DOGS" WITH GOOD RESULTS. 

BEFORE GOING INTO THE CARTING OF YOUR DOG, LET ME TALK A LITTLE ABOUT AN IMPORTANT SUBJECT ‑ GOOD SOCIALIZATION, AS IT RELATES TO YOUR PULL DOG TRAINING. WITH SPECIAL EMPHASIS ON YOUR PUPPY OR YOUNG DOG. YOU NEED TO BE GOING TO DIFFERENT PLACES TO PULL YOUR DOG. YOU SEE, THE DOG THAT HAS SPENT SEVERAL MONTHS PULLING IN HIS YARD OR TURF, WITH NO DISTRACTIONS, LOOKS GREAT. BUT, TAKE HIM IN FRONT OF A HUNDRED PEOPLE AND A BUNCH OF STRANGE DOGS AND YOU MAY THINK ALL YOUR HOURS OF TRAINING HAVE BEEN A WASTE OF TIME! 

THE KEY HERE IS AGAIN, SMALL STEPS. TRY GOING TO YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD PARK OR SCHOOL. SOMEWHERE THAT HAS A NATURAL SURFACE (GRASS, DIRT). PRACTICE YOUR BACK AND FOURTHS. MAKE SURE THERE IS NOT TOO MUCK EXCITEMENT AT FIRST. A PARK IS GOOD ON A WEEKDAY, WHEN THERE IS NOT MUCH GOING ON. AT THIS TIME YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO CORRECT ANY MAJOR PROBLEMS THAT YOUR DOG MIGHT BE HAVING. AGAIN, TAKE IT SLOW AND EASY. USE LIGHTER LOADS THAN YOU WOULD IN YOUR YARD. THIS WILL HELP BUILD YOUR DOG'S CONFIDENCE IN THE NEW ENVIRONMENT. KEEP YOUR LEASH ON THE DOG, OR AT LEAST IN YOUR HAND!

ONE MORE THING THAT DOES NOT RELATE TO TRAINING, BUT MIGHT HELP YOU. PEOPLE IN PUBLIC TEND TO BE VERY PASSIONATE ABOUT THINGS, ESPECIALLY ANIMALS. IF THEY HAVE NEVER SEEN A DOG WEIGHT PULL, THEY MAY THINK YOU ARE "KILLING" YOUR POOR DOG. THESE ARE THE SAME PEOPLE WHO KEEP THEIR DOGS CHAINED IN THE BACKYARD. EXCEPT TO FEED THEM AND KICK THEM OUT OF THE LAWNMOWER'S PATH, THEY DO NOTHING WITH THEM. PATIENCE AND COMMUNICATION IS THE KEY HERE. JUST EXPLAIN WHAT YOU AND YOUR DOG ARE TRAINING FOR. YOU WILL PROBABLY STILL GET SOME NEGATIVE REACTIONS. BUT, AS LONG AS YOU ARE NOT DRAGGING YOUR DOG AROUND BY HIS NECK, THE PERSON WITH AVERAGE INTELLIGENCE WILL SEE THAT THE DOG IS 'DOING SOMETHING OF IT'S OWN FREE WILL, AND HAVING FUN!

ONE ADVANTAGE I HAVE HERE IN COLORADO IS THAT THERE ARE SEVERAL NOVICE AND AMATEUR PULLS. YOU CAN MAKE THESE PULLS MORE OF A LEARNING EXPERIENCE THAN A REAL COMPETITION. I ALSO HAVE FRIENDS WITH CART SYSTEMS SET UP. WE TAKE TURNS GOING BACK AND FORTH TO EACH OTHERS HOUSE TO PULL.

CART TRAINING THE FIRST THING WE SHOULD TALK ABOUT IS A 

   CART! SOMETHING AS SIMPLE AS A CHILD'S WAGON MIGHT DO. IF YOU ARE SERIOUS AND PLAN A FUTURE IN WEIGHT PULLING, YOU NEED TO INVEST IN A DECENT CART OR TRACK SYSTEM. THE CART I HAD MADE IS 3 FEET BY 6 FEET, WITH RUBBER BOAT TRAILER TIRES. EACH AXLE IS TESTED TO 2,000 LBS, GIVING ME AN 8,000 LB MAXIMUM LOAD, WHICH IS WAY MORE THAN ANY DOG WILL EVER PULL ON A RUBBER TIRED CART. I WENT WITH PAINTED STEEL SO IT CAN TAKE THE WEATHER, BUT GOOD TREATED WOOD SHOULD WORK FINE. THERE ARE PULL HOOKS ON BOTH ENDS, SO IT CAN PULL IN EITHER DIRECTION. I CHOSE A WHEELED CART OVER A RAIL SYSTEM. I DID THIS BECAUSE THERE ARE MORE IWPA PULLS IN COLORADO THAN THERE ARE ADBA. (IWPA PULLS ON WHEELS; ADBA ON RAILS). ALSO, YOU DON'T NEED AS MUCH WEIGHT FOR A WHEELED CART AS YOU DO WITH A RAIL SYSTEM.

WEIGHTS  FOR WEIGHT ON MY CART, I USE TRACTION SAND BAGS. THE KIND YOU PUT IN YOUR TRUNK IN THE WINTER TIME. THEY COME IN 50 LB AND 70 LB BAGS. THE BAGS THEMSELVES ARE MADE OF A THICK PLASTIC AND ARE PRETTY DURABLE. I WOULD STILL SUGGEST YOU COVER THEM OR STORE THEM OUT OF THE WEATHER. I'VE HAD MINE FOR 4 YEARS NOW AND ONLY LOSE ONE PERIODICALLY WHEN A SEAM BREAKS.

PULLING SURFACE ‑ AS FAR AS SURFACES GO, I LIKE TO PULL ON CARPET. THE HOUSE I JUST SOLD HAD AN UNFINISHED BASEMENT, SO I LAID CARPET OVER THE CEMENT AND PULLED ON THAT. MY WIFE AND I HAVE RECENTLY BOUGHT A NEW PLACE WITH 3 ACRES AS TO EXPAND MY KENNELS. I NOW HAVE NO BASEMENT, SO I'VE LAID A STRIP OF CONCRETE IN FRONT OF MY GARAGE. I CAN PULL 20 FEET IN MY GARAGE AND ANOTHER 20 FEET OUT. THE DISTANCE YOU NEED TO PULL IN COMPETITION IS 16 FEET, BUT IN TRAINING I ALWAYS HAVE MY DOGS PULL THE CART 20‑30 FEET. I HAVE A PIECE OF SHORT SHAG CARPET, 10 X 40 FEET. I JUST ROLL IT OUT OVER THE CEMENT. I LIKE THE SHAG TO BE AS SHORT AS POSSIBLE, EVEN SLIPPERY. THIS TEACHES THE DOG TO DIG. IF YOU GO FROM SHORT TO LONG SHAG AT COMPETITION TIME, NO BIG DEAL. THE BETTER FOR YOU. GOING FROM LONG TO SHORT SHAG COULD BE DISASTROUS!

IF YOU ARE GOING TO TRAIN ON CARPET, I RECOMMEND YOU LET YOUR DOG GET THE FEEL OF THE NEW SURFACE. LET HIM DO HIS BACK AND FOURTHS WITH DRAG WEIGHTS ON THE CARPET. I SOMETIMES TAKE AS MUCH AS A WEEK TO INTRODUCE A PUPPY TO CARPET. REMEMBER, TAKE EVERYTHING STEP BY STEP.

AFTER SEVERAL DAYS OF BACK AND FORTHS ON THE CARPET, IT IS TIME TO DROP THE DRAG WEIGHTS AND HOOK UP THE CART. YOU NEED TO HAVE ANOTHER PERSON HELP YOU BY HOLDING THE CART. THE LAST THING YOU NEED NOW IS TO HAVE THE CART SMASHING INTO YOUR SYSTEMATICALLY TRAINED DOG, AND SCARING THE BE JESUS OUT OF HIM! MAKE SURE THE CART HANDLER IS INFORMED ON WHAT TO DO. A DOG CAPABLE OF DRAGGING 50 LBS FOR A MILE CAN FLY WITH MOST UNLOADED CARTS.

WE ARE NOT TESTING HIS STRENGTH HERE, MERELY GETTING HIM FAMILIAR WITH THE CART. I RECOMMEND YOU PUT A LEASH ON YOUR DOG AND STAND WITH HIM AT YOUR SIDE. GIVE HIM HIS COMMAND AND WALK FORWARD. IF HE BOLTS OR TRIES TO TURN AROUND, JUST REASSURE HIM BY CONTROLLING HIM WITH THE LEASH, AND GIVING ALOT OF PRAISE. I ALSO TREAT HIM WITH A PIECE OF FOOD. IF EVERYTHING HAS BEEN LAID OUT PROPERLY IN YOUR TRAINING, THE CART SHOULD BE NO BIG PROBLEM. BUT DO GO SLOW! I WOULD NOT TRY TO HAVE HIM PULL THE CART WITH YOU TOO FAR AWAY. KEEP HIM AT YOUR SIDE FOR SEVERAL DAYS, OR AT LEAST UNTIL HE STOPS LOOKING BEHIND HIM TO SEE WHAT'S THERE.

WHEN THE DOG STARTS TO PULL JUST BY HIS COMMAND, TAKE THE LEASH OFF. STAY AT HIS SIDE AND GIVE HIM ALOT OF PRAISE. THE CART PULLS DIFFERENTLY THAN THE DRAG WEIGHTS, SO IF YOUR DOG'S STYLE APPEARS TO REGRESS SOME, DON'T WORRY. BY KEEPING THE WEIGHT LIGHT, HE SHOULD PULL THE CART LIKE A CHAMP AFTER A VERY SHORT TIME. GO NO MORE THAN 10-15 PULLS. THE FIRST FEW DAYS ALWAYS KEEP IT FUN. ALOT OF PRAISE AND TREATS. MAKE SURE HE PULLS THE CART 20‑30 FEET EACH TIME. IF HE CAN PULL THE CART IN BOTH DIRECTIONS, EVEN BETTER.

YOUR ATTACHMENTS TO THE CART, YOUR TRAILERS, SHOULD BE 2 1/2 3 1/2 FEET LONG. I LIKE TO START MY DOG AT THE END OF THE LINE. NO SLACK. A GOOD WHEELED CART DOES NOT NEED A BOUNCE START. HE SHOULD LEAN INTO THE WEIGHT AND USE HIS STRENGTH TO START IT.

AS FAR AS WEIGHT INCREMENTS GO, IT ALL DEPENDS ON HOW EASY YOUR DOG PULLS THE EMPTY CART. IT IS STILL IMPORTANT TO GO EASY WITH THE WEIGHT. THE FIRST FEW WEEKS OF CART TRAINING YOU CAN PULL EVERY DAY, 10-15 PULLS. JUST LETTING YOUR DOG GET THE FEEL OF IT. 

ONCE THE DOG IS PULLING THE CART, A SCHEDULE OF ONCE OR TWICE A WEEK IS ADVISABLE. INCREASE WEIGHT IN SMALL INCREMENTS. SAY YOUR DOG PULLS THE CART WITH GREAT EASE, ADD 140 LBS AND LET HIM PULL IT TWICE. READ YOUR DOG'S EFFORT. EASY, HARD? GO UP LIKE THIS 4 OR 5 TIMES. MAKE SURE YOU KNOW YOUR DOG'S PERSONAL BEST AND DON'T EXCEED IT BY A WIDE MARGIN.  

LET ME STOP HERE AND SAY, YOU SHOULD STILL BE WORKING YOUR DOG ON HIS DRAG WEIGHTS AT LEAST 2-3 TIMES A WEEK. DRAG AT LEAST 1/2 TO 1 MILE. ADD WEIGHT NOT TO EXCEED OVER 25% OF THE DOG'S BODY WEIGHT. 

HERE IS AN EXAMPLE OF A CART WORKOUT

50% OF MAX  4 TIMES - 30 SECONDS BETWEEN PULLS

70% OF MAX  4 TIMES - 60 SECONDS BETWEEN PULLS

80% OF MAX  4 TIMES - 2 MINUTES BETWEEN PULLS

85-90% OF MAX   2 TIMES  2-3 MINUTES BETWEEN PULLS 

NEVER PULL A MAXIMUM LOAD MORE THAN EVERY 3-4 WEEKS. A COOL DOWN OF 4-6 PULL, 50% OF MAX CAN BE USED.  

MAKE YOUR DOG'S PULL TIME FUN. USE YOUR TREATS AND PRAISE. YOU CAN NOW START WEANING HIM OFF TREATS BY GIVING ONE EVERY OTHER PULL, EVERY THIRD PULL, EVERY FOURTH AND SO ON. BE PATIENT AND TRY NOT TO GET MAD. YOUR BUDDY WILL SENSE IT! HAVE FUN.  

THE FORMER AND THIS ARTICLE HAVE BEEN GENERAL. I’VE TRIED TO EXPLAIN THE WAY I TRAIN BY DOGS.  IT HAS BEEN GENERAL TO SAY THE LEAST, BUT I HOPE INFORMATIVE.

YOU AND YOUR DOG PULLING HEAVY WEIGHTS AS A TEAM TAKES DEDICATION AND WORK.  THE PUBLIC WILL LOOK AT YOU AND YOUR BULLDOG IN A POSITIVE WAY!

Weight Pull

Article taken from www.dogscouts.com

Weight pulling is a sport that dates back to the earliest times dogs were used as draft animals. Just as we have horse pulls and tractor pulls (men with their toys trying to prove that theirs is bigger and stronger than the next guy's), someone thought of the idea of weight pulling competitions for dogs, so that someone could say, "My dog's stronger than your dog."

In modern times, there are various types of weight pull competitions and organizations sponsoring them. There is the IWPA (International Weight Pulling Association), which sanctions weight pulling competitions and bestows titles on dogs which meet the pulling requirements, which are based on percentage of body weight of the dog. There is also the American Dog Breeder's Association, which sanctions weight pull competitions at dog shows for the American Pit Bull Terrier. There are also any number of sled dog organizations which hold weight pulls in connection with sled dog races in the winter time around the northern regions.

There is more than just strength involved in weight pulling competitions, especially the winter events. To pull a weighted sled over frozen terrain involves first "breaking out" the runners from the ice. Depending on the weather conditions on any given day, the sled may be "sticky" or it may slide rather easily. A good strategy is to have your dog pull to the right or left, to break out the runners, then to keep it moving, once the runners are free, so they don't get "stuck" again.

Good weight pulling technique involves keeping the body low to the ground, and applying all of the strength horizontally. Many dogs get frustrated when faced with a weight that they can't easily budge, and they begin leaping into the air, throwing themselves into the pull. This might help to break the runners free, but it won't get the sled into the forward momentum it needs to maintain movement.

The added factor of the runners freezing to the ground makes it more difficult to pull in this way than in one of the warm-weather pulls.

I have seen weight pull competitions at ADBA dog shows, and the dogs are able to pull much greater amounts of weight. The "sled" is on wheels which rolls across a track like a railroad car. The dog can only pull in one direction, and there is no need to break the sled free. But once it starts rolling, there is a definite advantage in going smoothly with the forward momentum, and not letting the sled stop. I have seen Pit Bulls pull weights upwards of 1,000 pounds easily this way, whereas the winter weight pulls often max out at around 800 pounds.

I will try to describe the way the pulls work, based on the ones I have entered or witnessed. First, everyone brings their dog to the weigh-in. The dogs are placed in a weighing device to determine their weight. Then, each dog takes a turn pulling the weight. They start with the empty sled, which in the winter competitions weighs 85 pounds. The dogs must pull a minimum of the empty sled to continue. The dog must pull the weight 16 feet, and has a minimum of 1 minute to do it in. Otherwise they get a DNP (did not pull), and are disqualified from further competition. After the initial weight, each handler can "pull" or "pass" as their turn comes around each time. A handler can pass up to two times before he has to have his dog pull again. The reason for this is to allow the dog to preserve his strength, if the handler is relatively sure that the dog can pull the weight. The weight is usually added on in 50 pound increments. As each dog fails to pull the new weight, he is dropped out of the competition until the last dog pulls the most weight. That dog is not necessarily the winner, depending on his body weight.

For example if my weight pull dog (Weasel) weighs in at anywhere from 20 to 23 pounds. By the time she pulls the empty sled, she has already pulled 4 times her body weight. A 120 pound Rottweiller would have to pull 480 pounds to beat her. Weasel can pull ten times her body weight. That means the 120 pound dog will have to pull 1,250 pounds to beat her (or 1,200 with a faster time). If there is a tie in amount of weight pulled, the win goes to the dog that pulled the weight in the least amount of time. Weasel does quite well at the weight pulls when she is in good condition. She is low to the ground and strong.

Conditioning is very important for this sport. You don't want to take a couch potato dog and hook him up to a sled and ask him to pull his guts out. You will want to do some weight training and gradually build on the amount you ask your dog to pull over the training season.

To participate in weight pull, you will need a special weight pulling harness. This kind of harness has more than the usual amount of padding, and comes down low, across the dog's back legs, to keep the weight bearing area down low. There is a bar across the rear of the harness to keep the straps from squeezing against the dog's legs during a pull. To train, you will need weights in measured quantities, so you know exactly how much you are asking your dog to pull, and how much you are increasing the weight each time. Then you will need some type of sled or cart to put the weight in to practice having your dog pull it.

Start by having your dog pull a very light weight, like the empty sled. Call your dog to you from 16 to 20 feet away. Some dogs will easily pull the sled, and others will say, "I'm Tied!" and give up. You have to teach the dog that he is not tied to an immovable object, and can budge the thing he is anchored to. Start close to the dog with a food reward and back up. If this doesn't motivate the dog to dig in and follow the cookie, you might have to attach a line to the sled and help get it started moving yourself. Once it is moving, it is easier to keep moving. When the dog starts getting the idea about pulling steadily forward to earn praise and treats, you can start adding a cue word to mean "pull." You can just call the dog with his name, but I think it helps if he has a cue word associated with the kind of low-to-the-ground, leverage pulling you are wanting him to do. When the dog will pull this light weight for you on cue, you may begin adding your incremental weights. I used cinderblocks and cement stepping stones to condition my Corgi.

Your dog will reach a point when he can't break the sled free before he will reach a point of not being able to pull it. If you always break it loose for him, however, he will not learn that he can do it himself. To get the dog to break loose the sled, you can have him pull sharply to the right and left. You can do this by using directional commands, if your dog knows them, or by standing over to the right and calling, then standing over to the left and calling. The dog may also be able to jolt the sled free a little better with a sudden lunge. That is why I try to leave the dog on a stay command with a slight bit of slack in the tug line. You don't want him to knock himself out when he reaches the end of the rope, you just want enough of a snap to jar the sled a little. Then, you want him to immediately continue pulling low, to keep the sled moving.

As the handler, it is your responsibility to do a few things.

First, make sure your dog knows what is expected of him. Many people get the whim to enter their dog in a weight pull competition, thinking he'd be good because he always "pulls on the leash." Dogs that have not pulled before often don't have a clue what is expected of them, and they often try to get out of the harness, run away, or go over to the spectators. It must be embarrassing for the owner, when their 100 lb dog won't even pull the empty sled. Practice before you enter.

Next, follow the rules. Keep your dog in the staging area and be ready when it's your turn. Don't leave your leash attached to the dog's pulling ring while waiting. If he learns that pulling does no good, he will be confused and will not be a good puller. He has to know that when he has the pulling harness on and is attached to anything, he must try to budge it as hard as he can. Don't use food to get your dog to pull. After the pull, you can give your dog a treat in the staging area, but you are not allowed to lure him with food, other dogs, other family members, or other goodies. Be ready when it is your turn to pull, and quickly take your dog back to the staging area when you're finished. Know your dog's limitations. Use your judgment as to choosing "Pass" or "Pull," and don't ask your dog to pull more weight than you feel he can reasonably pull. Most dogs will limit themselves, however, and would stop short of pulling until they hurt themselves. When your dog is unable to successfully pull the weight, have the chute steward get the sled started, and let the dog finish pulling it for fun (to end on a good note).

Finally, Keep the safety and welfare of your dog first, as you would in any sport. Check the dog's foot pads to make sure they're in good condition. Make sure they are not caked with ice before a pull. Make sure the toenails are not left too long or clipped too short. Either condition can prove painful. A split toenail is very painful condition, and a dog should not compete until it is well healed.

Weight pull can be a very fun and exciting sport. It's especially fun to watch a little dog beat all of the larger dogs. One of the first weight pull dogs I came to know was a Chinese Crested. These are small, skinny, hairless dogs with the topknot on their heads. Not exactly the type of dog you would picture being a weight pull champion. It just goes to show that you can do just about any dog sport with just about any breed (or mix) of dog!
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ADBA/ADBSI Weight Pull Rules & Requirements  (January 2005)   Proper equipment is mandatory WHEN holdING aN ADBSI Sanctioned Weight Pull. Hosting clubs must provide: a)         Weights ‑ Ranging from 50 lbs and up. b)         Scale ‑ Check weight for scale MUST be certified (stamped) by state. c)         Regulation stopwatch d)         Rope ‑ for pulling area and holding area. e)         Chalk board of any type, (large enough for easy viewing by all) for recording weight and time each dog pulls. f)           Ribbon awards: 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place for each weight class, male & female. A total of 36 ribbons. (Ribbon awards to be ordered from ADBSI) g)         Two trophy awards. Most Weight Pulled per Pound of Body Weight -55 pound & under classes. Most Weight Pulled per Pound of Body Weight  - 55 pound & over classes. (Trophies are to be supplied by hosting club.) h)         ADBSI weight pull judges book –(Results MUST be on ADBSI approved weight pull forms.) i)           Current Weight Pulling rules for handouts. j)           Weight pull-scoring sheets. k)         Registration entry forms for Weight Pull. ACE OF ACE CLASS Ace of Ace class awards will consist of:  9 Rosette awards: 1st, 2nd and 3rd place for each weight class  - Males and females pull together. (Ordered from ADBSI)  2 Trophy awards. Most Weight Pulled per Pound of Body Weight -55lb. & under - Most Weight Pulled per Pound of Body Weight - 55lb. & over. (Trophies are to be supplied by hosting club.) NOTICE: Any additional trophies or ribbons may be given at discretion of the club but required ADBSI awards MUST be given and ONLY these awards will receive points. Officials and Duties Judge: Must be sanctioned by ADBSI and in good standing. Directs weight pull. Settles dis­putes. Has the final decision. Directs load­ing of cart and in­forms scorekeeper of total weight on cart. Also in charge of the cart people. Scorekeeper #1: Keeps record of weights pulled and times of pull for each dog, re­cords fouls. Scorekeeper #2: Announces results and records win­ners in each weight division. Scorekeeper #3: Keeps results of times and weights pulled on the score­board for par­ticipants & audie­nce. Entrance monitor: Controls holding area, have dog on deck, har­nessed and in pulling position. Informs handlers of weight dog is pulling. Cart people: Load and unloads the cart and positions the cart for the next pull.   §       The weight pull judge and/or family members can not enter or pull a dog in a wt. pull that he/she is judging unless an alternate judge, judges the entire class the dog is entered in. §       Two officials must be present during the time of weigh in. §       No spayed or neutered dogs are allowed to enter in an ADBSI sanctioned weight pull. §       No artificial aids or illegal substances may be used to enhance a dog’s performance. §       All dogs must be nine (9) months of age to enter §       There is no qualifying pull necessary to enter weig­ht pull. §       Dog must make a com­plete pull (a minimum of one round at the minimum required weight) to receive points and a­wards.  ADBA CERTIFIED Weight Pull Rules: 1)         1) All dogs must be ADBA registered and no less than nine (9) months of age (to date of birth) to enter. 2) No bitches in heat will be allowed to enter. If a bitch is allowed to enter de­ceit­fully, the judge will disqualify that dog and no entry fee will be refunded. 3) While participating in event(s), leads are to be no longer than 4 feet and attached to a “belt buckle” collar. Collar must be secure. No “quick release” snaps, “choke chains” or “flex” leads will be allowed. 4) No dogs that are aggressive to humans will be allowed to enter. (Muzzled or not muzzled.) No ag­gressive action will be all­owed by dogs to­ward hand­ler or any off­icial during pull com­peti­tion. If a dog of this tem­pera­ment is allowed to enter in er­ror, the judge will disqualify that dog and no entry fee will be refunded. ­ Excitement is not to be in­ter­preted as aggres­sion. Remember, your dog may be handled by persons other than yourself. 5) All equipment to be used by contestants MUST be checked by judge, prior to use.   6) The weight pull track must be verified consistently level or at incline by the judge before the pull begins. The decision of how often the track will be checked throughout the com­petition must be decided at the handlers meeting before the pull starting. (This can only be done between weight classes, not in the middle of the weight class). 7) No artificial aids may be used on dogs feet, carpet, etc. (Dog pads are to be clean, free of any stick-em, etc.) 8) It will be decided at the handlers meet­ing if the judge will begin the time by a go or pull command, or if the handlers will begin the time by releas­ing the dog. (It is necessary for all four feet to be on the ground when the dog is released.) The handler must let the judge know before beginning their pull, which command he/she will use. 9) Dogs designated as an ADBSI ACE cannot enter regular weight pull competi­tion. No dog is considered an ACE until 100 points have been achieved. 10) Fouls will be called and entrant will be disqualified in the weight class com­peting in after three fouls are com­mitted. (Ex­ample) Foul, Foul, out. Fouls may be com­mitted intentionally or uninten­tionally. The following is a list of fouls: A) Touching the cart or dog in any ­way after time has been started. B)                 Pushing, pulling or dropping dog at the start of      pull. C) Allowing the dog to take hold of or touch the bait while pulling in competi­tion. D) Aggressive action of handler towards dog during pull compet­ition. E) Running out of time (taking long­er than the 60 seconds allowed to com­plete the pull). 11) Alibis - Unintentional circumstan­ces that make a dog unable to complete a pull. The judge will stop time and instruct the handlers to handle their dog and cart. (An example of these circumstances could be: tangling in the traces or harnes­ses; equip­ment malfunc­tion; or any outside inter­ference that prevents the dog from complet­ing his pull.) ­­­­­­ Handler may point out a possible alibi, but the judge will have the final decision. Any two alibis=one foul. If a pull is interrupted by a foul or an alibi, the dog is to be immediately taken back to the starting line and the pull will begin again. No pull will be valid unless it is an un-interrupted pull. If a dog is disqualified, his last valid pull is his top pull of that class. 12) If a dog completes the pull off the track, it is considered a complete pull as long as no fouls or alibis are com­mitted. 13) There will be six diff­erent weight clas­ses. ­Sep­arate a­wards will be given to males and females for 1st place, 2nd place, and 3rd place in each weight division. The dogs will be weighed and placed into the following classes: 35 lbs and under ……... Males & females 35 to 45 lbs ........…....... Males & females 45 to 55 lbs ........…....... Males & females 55 to 65 lbs .........…...... Males & females 65 to 75 lbs .........…...... Males & females 75lbs and over ....…...... Males & females Dogs must be entered in their natural body weight class. If a dogs weight is exactly ­55lbs., the owner may enter their dog in either the 45 to 55lb class, or the 55 to 65lb class.  Weight class must be chosen at time of registration.  Dogs will be competing for the MWPPP trophy award of the weight class entered. The wei­ght pull is a test of strength and stamina, not brute strength. 14) All weight pull awards will be decided by most weight pulled per pound of body weight, with the lowest common denominator being 30lbs., regardless of the dog’s natural body weight. Dogs weighing in less than 30lbs. will be handicapped accordingly. 15) Two trophies will be awarded for Most Weight Pulled per Pound of Body Weight. One for the overall winner of the 55 pound and under classes and One for the overall winner of the 55 pound and over classes. Dogs will be competing for trophy award based on weight class entered. (Lowest common denominator will be 30lbs.) Sex is not a factor when det­ermining the winner of these two awards. (These weight divisions will give enough latitude that the handler's expertise will be an in­fluen­tial factor for a winning pull. This vari­ance will allow for ex­perimen­ting in train­ing in order to bring a dog to its most efficient pulling weight. ­This will also encourage a handler to work and con­dition the dog and not bring an "off the yard" animal into competition.) 16) Certification will be made by the weight pull judge of the clubs cart and individual weights to be used. Total weight of cart and traces will be con­sidered as part of the total weight pulled. 17) Traces must be no less than 4 feet and no more than 6 feet long. Hand­ler will allow no more than one foot of slack in the traces. 18) Harness must be supplied by owner of the dog. (A well fitting harness is an advantage for your dog. This will encour­age handlers and owners to provide their own harnesses made to fit the dog that is pull­ing and made to weigh as little as poss­ible.) Any harness used must be a "standard harness.” Shocks, springs etc. cannot be used on harness. No leashes will be allowed to be attached to the dog, col­lar, or har­ness while the dog is pulling. 19) Surface ‑ any surface selected by the club must be as smooth and level as possibl­e. We discourage using a paved surface unless covered in order to protect the dog's feet. (Every dog is pulling the same cart under the same conditions and surface for that day’s competi­tion. - Your dog is competing with the dogs of their weight division under equal conditions for that days pulling awards. 20) The holding area should be positioned in front of the pulling track, if site per­mits, far enough away so the pulling dogs will not be interfered with. 21) Pulling track will be roped off or blocked off 10 feet on each side of track to pre­vent spectat­ors from crowd­ing pulling track and distract­ing the pulling contes­tan­t. All dogs should also be kept well away from pulling track. 22) Points will be given for first, second and third place wins.   First place: 8 points Second place: 5 points Third place: 3 points  Trophy award: 10 points. 23) Males and females will pull with each other, in the same class. Males will pull first. (The judge has checked all bitches for heat before com­petition.­) 24) Start and finish lines will be mar­ked plai­nly with the length of pulling surface extending far enough beyond the 15 feet so that the dog may remain on the pull­ing surface after pull is ­completed. 25) Dogs will be called to the holding area where dog’s number will be checked. The pull will commence according to the weight divisions. Lightest weight class will pull first. 26) Dogs must pull the cart and weight a total of 15 feet in 60 seconds. 27) Ties will be broken by elapsed time it took to complete pull. In the event of a tie due to club running out of weights, additional weights can be provided in any form as long as the judge & hosting club approve it. (Safety and club's liability is 1st concern when considering this option. Therefore, elapsed time should be used whenever possible to break all ties) Judge will make the decision as to how ties will be broken. Judges decision will be final! 28) The first weight round for all dogs in each class will be determined by the judge, after discussion with the handlers entered in that class. The starting weight will be no less than three (3) times the weight of the heaviest dog in weight class, plus the weight of the cart and traces. If combining classes, use weight of the heaviest dog in the heaviest class plus the weight of the cart and traces to determine the starting weight. A pull will not be valid unless it is a complete, uninterrupted pull. Fouls or alibis occurring will result in the pull being started over. 29) THE JUDGE will determine the increase in weight to be pulled for each round. THE JUDGES DECISION IS FINAL! 30) Every dog has the right to "sit out" on a weight increase NO MORE THAN 4 TIMES. (Choose to pull at a weight increase or wait for the next weight increase.) This need not be done consecutively. "Sit outs will start after a dog has made a complete pull. 31) All dogs entered in a weight class will pull to completion (pull out) and awards will be determined before another weight class be­gins. Every dog will pull to his/her weight limit in the class enter­ed, thereby deter­mining the first, second and third place awards. A process of elimin­ation at in­creased weights determ­ined by the judge is the only way to eliminate dogs until awards can be given. Weight classes can be com­bined if holding area can accommo­date all the dogs in the class. Extra care must be taken to keep records straight when combin­ing classes. 32) Dogs will pull in turn, but no dog will be re­quired to pull without five minutes allowed between pulls. If the rest period is taken, the pull is to continue with dog re-entering as soon as the rest period is up. Hand­ler may choose to waive the 5-minute rest period­. 33) Dogs will be harnessed after being call­ed to get ready and remain har­nessed in the holding area until the dog is call­ed to the pulling track. Dog will then be able to compete. Dogs will be eliminated if dog fails to complete the pull, or is fouled out, or he will remain at the rear of the line in the holding area for the next pulling round. (Harness may be removed from dog between pulls, as long as contes­tant does not hold up pull.) The cart will be placed with front wheels di­rectly be­hind and touching the starting line. The round is com­plete and time re­corded when front wheels first touch the finish line. 34) Two handlers may work the dog and bait. (If bait is used, it MUST be held in front of the dog.) Handlers will be al­lowed in the pulling area, with bait, in any position and as close to the dog as long as the dog is unable to touch the bait. Hand­ler will allow no more than one foot of slack in the traces. 35) Baiting of the dog will be allowed by handlers inside the pulling area. No food or live bait will be allowed. Example of ap­proved bait: Piece of leather hide, tire, Frisbee, squeak toy, etc. ANY OBJECT THAT MAY BE DETRIMENTAL TO THE IMAGE OF THE BREED WILL NOT BE ACCEPTED AS BAIT. ALL ITEMS TO BE USED AS BAIT MUST BE APPROVED BY THE JUDGE BEFORE THE BEGINN­ING OF THE COMPETITION. THE JUDGES DECISION IS FINAL! No baiting will be allowed that en­courages aggression towards humans, such as hitting the other handler, attack train­ing sleeve, etc. Handlers must remain in­side the pulling track area until the pull is com­pleted or time is up.  (Some American Pit Bull Terriers need to have bait in order for them to pull. We are not teaching them to go after bait, just sparking their genetic in­stinct in order for them to pull. Being an in­telligent dog and the fact that most pit bulls are housed on chains, they soon learn just how far their chain will go and when they feel a slight tug of resist­ance, they will stop pulling, thinking they have reached the end of the chain. This is in­deed an obstacle if the dog you are teach­ing is housed on a chain. ­Therefore, bait is usually a neces­sity.) Command pullers are quickly replac­ing bait pullers, but both styles are al­lowed. The Ace of Ace Class      This is a class that is held for dogs that have earned the title of "ACE"  (100 points +). ¨ Only dogs that have the "ACE" title may compete­ in this class. A minimum of eight dogs entered is required to hold this class. Points earned from this class will go to­wards advancing the title of "Ace" to de­grees of "Aces." ¨ The weight divisions for the Ace of Ace class:         44lbs & under,         44lbs to 64lbs.         64lbs and over. ¨ Dogs must enter their natural body weight class. If dogs weight is exactly ­44lbs., the owner may enter their dog in either the 44lb & under class, or the 44 to 64lb. class. ¨ Four "sit outs" are allowed for each dog. Ace of Ace rest period between pulls is 5 minutes. ¨ Males and females pull together in weight classes. Weight classes can be combined. Extra care must be taken to keep records straight if combining weight classes. ¨ The beginni­ng weight to be pulled will be decid­ed by the hand­lers and judge. ¨ ACES will be compet­ing for Most Weight Pull­ed Per Pound of Body Weight 55lbs and under; and Most Weight Pulled Per Pound Of Body Weight 55lbs and over, trophy awards, along with 1st , 2nd and 3rd place awards in each weight division.¨ All weight pull awards are also decided by the most weight pulled per pound of body weight, with the lowest common denominator set at 30lbs. ¨ Sex of win­ners is not a factor.¨Trophy Awards: 15pts, 1st place: 10 pts, 2nd place: 7 pts, 3rd place: 4 pts ¨ A total of 200 points will give your dog the title of "Ace of Ace.” 300 points "Ace of Ace I,” 400 points "Ace of Ace II" etc. (It is a fact that the strongest dog is the one that can pull the most weight per body pound. The focus of the Ace class is the same as the non-Ace (regular class) to determine the strongest dog competing within each division of that day’s competition.) *Copyright 2005 - American Dog Breeders Assoc. Inc.  American Dog Breeders Show Inc.           All weight pull rules should be consistent in all areas of the country. If any clarifi­ca­tions are needed on the meaning of any of these rules, con­tact the A.D.B.S.I. show department at (801) 936-7513 between the hours of 11:00am – 4:30pm Mon-Fri                            *Attention Clubs* If your club feels that you cannot hold your Ace of Ace class separate from the regular weight pull classes, due to time or any other reason, DO NOT HOLD THIS CLASS!! If this class is held with the regular weight pull, ALL POINTS EARNED BY THE ACE'S WILL BE VOID and clubs will be penalized. ========================================================================================

International Weight Pull Association (IWPA)  SECTION 1 – PHYSICAL AREA   A. SNOW    The weight pulling chute shall be in an area not less than ten (10) feet no more than twenty (20) feet wide, and not less than thirty-five (35) feet long. The chute will open on the end toward which the pull is made. The chute shall be as level as hard packed snow permits. If there is any perceptible slope to the chute, the direction of the pull shall be toward the higher end. There shall be at least one (1) physical barrier separating the crowd from the chute. Dogs shall achieve traction on the same surface as that on which the sled rides.  B. WHEELED  The dimensions and the description of the weight pull chute shall be the same for wheeled pulls as for snow pulls. The chute shall be as level and firm as conditions permit. Acceptable surfaces shall be grass, hard packed dirt, gravel or carpet. Dogs shall achieve traction on the same surface as that on which the cart rides.  C. HOLDING AREA  A safe and adequate holding area shall be provided for both snow or wheeled pulls. All competing dogs shall remain in a marked or designated holding area. The holding area shall adequately and safely hold the number of dogs in competition.    SECTION 2 - EQUIPMENT   A. SNOW   The sled must be capable of safely carrying a load of 4000 lbs. The two runners must be two (2) to four (4) inches wide and at least seven (7) feet long on the contact surface and curved at the front end in a reasonable manner for a sled. The runners shall consist of a p-tex material or a steel runner. The sled must be a minimum of thirty (30) inches in width and no more than forty-eight (48) inches in width. The sled shall be provided with an adequate bridle and tug line of total length so that the point of attachment to the dog's harness will not exceed six (6) feet from the sled. The bridle shall be made of rope or nylon. Chains or cable will not be allowed. The sled bridle shall be tied together at a point 2' - 3' in front of the sled. The bridle will look like a Y. For the twenty (20) and forty (40) pound class, a smaller and lighter sled may be substituted as approved by the Chief Judge.  B. WHEELED   If the pull is held on a surface other than snow, a wheeled cart shall be used. It must be capable of safely carrying a load that can exceed 4000 lbs. The cart must have four (4) pneumatic tires which must all have the same air pressure prior to the event. The tires shall not be less than eight (8) inches in height and no more than eighteen (18) inches in height. A spare tire for the cart or adequate repair kit should be available at the pull site. The bridle shall be made of rope or nylon and be a minimum of 5' and maximum of 6' from the start line to point of attachment to the dogs harness. Chains or cable will not be allowed.  The cart bridle shall not be tied.  The snap should be able to slide freely from side to side.   This bridle will look like a long V. For the twenty (20) and forty (40) pound class, a smaller and lighter sled may be substituted as approved by the Chief Judge provided it has pneumatic tires. If using a lightweight cart/sled, when the weight is equal to that of the larger cart/sled, the competition may continue with the larger cart/sled.  C. WEIGHT  An adequate supply of pre-weighed, inert material suitable for safe, stable stacking shall be provided. This is applicable for both snow and wheeled pulls.  D. BARRIERS  The chute barrier shall be a minimum of three (3) feet high and long enough so that dogs being driven from the rear will complete their pull within the barrier. The chute barrier shall be located at the very edge of the pulling pad, within the chute area. The best possible barriers shall be encouraged, but any one material shall not be mandatory. The following would be considered appropriate chute barriers: plywood, snow fence, wood planks, hog panels and other materials that possess a bouncing-off or glancing ability when struck by the sled. (If the sled or cart becomes stuck or lodged on a barrier, it would then be considered a tangle (see Tangle Rule Sec. 5 C12). A crowd barrier is required to separate the spectators a minimum distance of three (3) feet from the pulling chute. A rope barrier is considered adequate for this purpose.   SECTION 3 - OFFICIALS   A. SNOW & WHEELED  The event will be governed by the Chief Judge. To insure that the I.W.P.A. has qualified officials at its events, all Chief Judges shall be selected from a list approved by the I.W.P.A. Board of Directors. (A list of approved judges comes in the sanctioning kits, or is also available from the sanctioning director.) 1. The Chief Judge shall supervise the overall event.  He/She shall make all final decisions in any protest or dispute, before, during and after the event.  The Chief Judge has the right to disqualify any dog or handler for any violation of the rules or unsportsmanlike conduct before, during and after the event. 2.  The organizer of the event shall be responsible for the completion of all forms, handler reports and information required by the IWPA and a statement verifying that all IWPA rules were adhered to.  Failure to comply with IWPA rules, especially rules that deal with the safety and the welfare of the dog, or put the IWPA in a liable situation, shall be grounds for loss of sanctioning, including insurance coverage. 3.  The Sled Course Marshal shall be responsible for the safe and proper stacking of weight on the sled/ cart, proper positioning of the sled/cart, hooking up of the dogs to the sled/cart, breaking the sled when pulling on snow, and maintenance of the pulling course. The sled/cart officials may not block the dog. The track is only to be groomed between classes. 4. A qualified timer equipped with a stop watch capable of timing to a 100th of a second shall time each pull and report that time directly to the official recorder. The recorder shall post the weight pulled and the time required to the official score sheet. (The timer and recorder shall be supervised by the Chief Judge.)  SECTION 4 - Contestants   A. ELIGIBILITY   1. All contestants must be either a regular member of the I.W.P.A. or a provisional member to enter a dog in competition in any I.W.P.A. sanctioned weight pull. Dogs pulled by provisional members count for points but receive no points. Dogs participating in I.W.P.A. sanctioned events for points need to be owned and pulled by members (not necessarily the same member). The dog assumes the address of its current owner.   2. All dogs must be at least one (1) year of age and not more than 12 years of age to compete in any I.WP.A. event. The physical condition of the dog should always be taken into consideration and the Chief Judge may disqualify any dog they feel will be in danger of injury.   3. For the safety and welfare the animal, all dogs must be currently immunized against any contagious canine diseases (hepatitis, distemper, leptospirosis, parvovirus, kennel cough, rabies etc.). These vaccinations must be recognized by the state/ province in which the dog is pulling. The use of performance altering drugs including but not limited to controlled substances (i.e. illegal), stimulants, depressants, anabolic steroids or their precursors and suppressants such  as rimadyl and aspirin shall be strictly prohibited. If an organization intends to test for illegal drug medications, it shall be declared so on the entry form.  It is the handler’s responsibility to submit documentation to declare use of any medication.   4. All contestants shall fill out an official I.W.P.A. entry form or its approved equivalent and sign it. Approval of a non-official entry form shall be up to the Chief Judge.   5. No bitch in season shall be allowed to compete or allowed to be on the premises.   6. No pregnant or nursing bitch shall be allowed to compete in an I.W.P.A. event.   7. For the safety and protection of the dog, all dogs shall be fitted properly with a freight or   weight pull type harness which extends no more than 2 feet from the base of the dogs tail.   8. Any person found to be participating in a dog fighting competition shall be suspended to the maximum amount, pending possible expulsion, due to abusive or inhumane treatment of dogs.  B. HANDLER CONDUCT & CONTROL OF DOGS    All entrants shall be responsible for the conduct of their dogs, family and handlers before, during and after the event.  Vicious or unmanageable dogs shall be barred from competition.  Disruptive, rude or unsportsmanlike conduct toward animals, officials, handlers or spectators will be cause for disciplinary action and/or disqualification.  All dogs shall be under physical control, while in the pull area, except when hooked to the sled or cart. All handlers shall be responsible for cleaning up after their own dogs. Abusive or inhumane treatment of a dog shall be strictly prohibited and shall be cause for disqualification. C. WEIGHT CLASSES               20 pounds -         dogs weighing 20 lbs. or less               40 pounds -         dogs weighing 21-40 lbs.               60 pounds -         dogs weighing 41-60 lbs.               80 pounds -         dogs weighing 61-80 lbs.               100 pounds -       dogs weighing 81-100 lbs.               125 pounds -       dogs weighing 101-125 lbs.               150 pounds -       dogs weighing 126-150 lbs.               Unlimited  -     dogs weighing more than 151 lbs. All weights shall be rounded down to the lowest whole pound. EXAMPLE: A dog weighing 60 3/4 lbs would be recorded as 60 lbs. D. WEIGH-INS All dogs shall be weighed prior to each I.W.P.A. sanctioned weight pull (multiple or consecutive day pulls by the same organization require only one weigh-in). The weigh-in shall be no more than 24 hours prior the start of the competition. All recorded dog weights shall be rounded to the lowest whole pound. Dogs shall wear only a standard collar during weigh in. All weigh-ins will be overseen by an I.W.P.A. certified judge and all dogs will be weighed in on the same scales provided for the pull. In the event that the dogs weight exceeds the scale's capacity, but it is obvious the dog is in the Unlimited Class it will be eligible to compete for points, but not Working Dog Certificates or best percentage.  SECTION 5 – THE CONTEST A. ORGANIZING CLUB OPTION    The organizing club has the option to run the weight pull event class by class or in conjunction with another class or to run the event concurrently (all classes together). B. COMPETING IN HEAVIER WEIGHT CLASS      The dog that wins its weight class shall not be allowed to compete in the next weight class. However the winning dog shall be allowed to pull as many times as it wants to establish a top percentage pull. These percentage pulls shall be at the established load increment. C. PROCEDURE OF THE WEIGHT PULL EVENT  1. Each dog shall be required to pull a loaded sled/ cart a measured sixteen (16) feet within 60 seconds. If the sled/cart is in continuous forward motion the dog shall be allowed to complete the pull and the actual time required to make the pull shall be recorded.  2. Handlers shall set the dog and proceed directly across the finish line if calling or behind the front of the cart if driving; there shall not be any communication or contact with the dog or equipment once the handler is more than an arms length away from the dog.  Once the handler has crossed the 16-foot line, they may not make contact with the dog, pulling surface or equipment between the start and finish line. The handler cannot touch the dog until the pull is complete.  3. Once the dog is in position in front of the sled/ cart no physical handling of the dog will be allowed.  The judge will direct the handler to physically reposition the dog if there is a tangle or equipment failure.  The dog is considered to be in position when the handler moves more than arms length away from the dog. 4. Only one handler is allowed to communicate with the dog, either with hand signals and/or voice commands from the course area. 5. The handler shall be allowed to position his/her dog anywhere between the wheels/runners in front of the sled/cart at the end of the extended tug line. The dog shall be positioned with enough slack in the tug line to prevent the dog from inadvertently moving the sled or cart. There shall not be so much slack as to allow a sling shot start. A defined stop in the forward motion of the dog must be achieved.  6. The handler may pass one or two turns but must pull on the third turn. Once the dog is hooked up to the sled/ cart the handler may not pass in that round except as stated in Section 5 #13. (Dogs are no longer required to pull the starting weight.) 7. Chief Judge shall set the starting weight not to exceed the following:  Class     Max, Wt.           Class       Max Wt.       20 lb.     300 lbs              100 lb      700 lbs.       40 lb.     400 lbs              125 lb.     800 lbs.       60 lb.     500 lbs.              150 lb      800 lbs.       80 lb.     600 lbs.              UNL        800 lbs. These weights are maximum starting weights. Each dog may enter any round at or blow the max weight in that class. If poor pulling conditions exist, the Chief Judge may adjust the starting weights lower to match the conditions. 8. Load increments shall be determined by the Chief Judge and a simple majority of the handlers and shall be set prior to the beginning of the class. (A load increment usually considered appropriate for the lower classes is 40 to 50 lbs. For the larger classes it may be as much as 100 to 200 lbs. or more.) The Chief Judge shall recommend the load increments to the handlers, considering the pulling conditions and the welfare of the dogs. The selected increment for each class shall remain consistent throughout the class. 9. The handler has the option of having the cart placed anywhere on the starting line as long as the wheels are perpendicular to the start line. The handler has the option to reposition the cart one time. No test rolling of the cart shall be allowed. 10. The time will start once the handler is in the proper position and instructs the dog to pull or the dog attempts or starts to pull. 11. When on snow the sled shall be broken in the following manner: There shall be a break line 2 feet BEHIND the designated start line. The front of the sled shall be positioned at the break line. The Chief Judge shall then direct the following sequence: (1) The sled to be positioned at the start line with the sled runners perpendicular to the start line. (2) The pulling pad to be cleared of all sled marshals (unless the handler requests assistance in hooking up the dog). (3) The handler to leave the on deck circle, hook up the dog and the pull to commence. 12.  Deleted 13.Tangles are called at the Chief Judge's discretion. A tangle shall be called by the judge only if the dog or any of the equipment in use becomes entangled.   A.   In the event of a tangle, at the judges discretion the timer will stop the clock and the handler must realign the dog and harness before the pull is resumed. Two tangles on the same round will constitute the dogs removal from the competition.   B.  If the sled/cart becomes stuck on a barrier of the pulling pad it shall be considered a tangle. The clock would be stopped and the sled/cart would then be freed of the barrier at the point of which it was stuck. The dog would be allowed to continue the pull with the remaining time left on the clock. Two tangles on the barrier on the same round shall constitute the dog's removal from the competition. 14. If any part of the harness or other equipment breaks, the handler shall have 60 seconds to repeat the pull after repairs. He/She may choose to accept this interrupted pull as a pass.  Deliberate tangles will be an immediate disqualification. 15. Whips, noisemakers, muzzles, pinch collars, or related aids shall not be permitted at any time during an IWPA event. No food, treats or bait shall be used from the time the dogs class begins until the dog is eliminated from competition and removed from the pull area. Handlers shall not have food or bait on their person during the competition 16. No dogs, including those not entered in competition shall be allowed in the area ahead of the starting line, except the dog that is pulling.                                         17. There shall be a marked "on deck" area behind, but near the starting end of the pull chute. This marked area shall house only the next dog to pull. 18. The dog pulling the most weight in its class is declared the winner. Each successive dog pulling a lower weight is placed second, third, etc. If two or more dogs pull the same weight the required distance and can pull no more weight the full distance, the winner is determined by the fastest time in the previous pull. 19. The maximum number of dogs handled in a given weight class by one handler shall be limited to no more than two (2) dogs per weight class.  SECTION 6 - POINTS THE BASIS ON WHICH POINTS WILL BE AWARDED In order for a weight pull to be recognized and points recorded, it shall be the responsibility of the weight pull organization to properly report the weight pull results to the I.W.P.A. as outlined in the sanctioning package, by the sanctioning director. In order for the dog to be eligible and counted for points  they must be entered and eligible as described in SECTION 4 - Contestants, A. ELIGIBILITY. Each dog will receive one (1) point for each dog defeated in his class that has made a successful pull. The last place dog in each class will earn 1/2 point, providing they have made a successful pull and place 4th or below. In addition: * 5 points will be awarded for first place * 3 points will be awarded for second place * 1 point will be awarded for third place The dog's five best pulls will be counted in the final standing. Two pulls from out of region (two for snow and two for wheels) can be counted. Wheeled events will be kept separate from the snow events. With an approved I.W.P.A. Chief Judge, dogs competing in non-sanctioned events or fun pulls shall be eligible to earn legs toward working dog titles. SECTION 7 – REPORTING RESULTS All forms must be completed with appropriate signatures and statistics and postmarked no later than 5 days following the event. SECTION 8 - PROTEST Any entrant protesting a violation of the rules shall do so immediately following the round. The protest may be verbal but shall be followed by a written statement directed to the Chief Judge within one (1) hour after the end of the contest. A hearing shall be scheduled and a decision rendered. The decisions of the Chief Judge are final. SECTION 9 – WEIGHT PULL SEASON The weight pull season shall run from September 1 through March 31. UKC (United Kennel Club) Weight Pull Rules and Regulations... Click on each section below for more information regarding each section. Jurisdiction Purpose Definitions General Rules Dog Temperament and Behavior Use of Alcohol and Illegal Drugs at Events Misconduct and Discipline Scheduling UKC Events Planning UKC Events Entering a UKC Event Weigh-In Time and Judging Schedule Changes After An Event Has Been Published Canceling a UKC-Licensed Event Awards, Trophies and Ribbons Pull Area Equipment Eligibility to Compete in Weight Pull Events Weight Classes Rules Applying to Exhibitors and Spectators Judging Procedures The Weigh-In Handler's Meeting Pulling Order Maximum Starting Weights Pulling Rules Requirements for a Qualifying Pull The Start and Finish Passes Fouls Weight Pull Titles and Class Placements Total Dog Award Weight Pull Judge Information