Responsible Pit Bull Ownership

"Let's show the world why Pit Bull dogs are so deserving of our love"

Break the Chains! ©2002 Whim Whams Illustration Studio 1. What is meant by "chaining" or "tethering" dogs? These terms refer to the practice of fastening a dog to a stationary object or stake, usually in the owner's backyard, as a means of keeping the animal under control. These terms do not refer to the periods when an animal is walked on a leash.   2. Is there a problem with continuous chaining or tethering? Yes, the practice is both inhumane and a threat to the safety of the confined dog, other animals, and humans.   3. Why is tethering dogs inhumane? Dogs are naturally social beings who thrive on interaction with human beings and other animals. A dog kept chained in one spot for hours, days, months, or even years suffers immense psychological damage. An otherwise friendly and docile dog, when kept continuously chained, becomes neurotic, unhappy, anxious, and often aggressive. In many cases, the necks of chained dogs become raw and covered with sores, the result of improperly fitted collars and the dogs' constant yanking and straining to escape confinement. Dogs have even been found with collars embedded in their necks, the result of years of neglect at the end of a chain. In one case, a veterinarian had to euthanize a dog whose collar, an electrical cord, was so embedded in the animal's neck that it was difficult to see the plug.   4. Who says tethering dogs is inhumane? In addition to The Humane Society of the United States and numerous animal experts, the U. S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) issued a statement in the July 2, 1996, Federal Register against tethering: "Our experience in enforcing the Animal Welfare Act has led us to conclude that continuous confinement of dogs by a tether is inhumane. A tether significantly restricts a dog's movement. A tether can also become tangled around or hooked on the dog's shelter structure or other objects, further restricting the dog's movement and potentially causing injury."   5. How does tethering or chaining dogs pose a danger to humans? Dogs tethered for long periods can become highly aggressive. Dogs feel naturally protective of their territory; when confronted with a perceived threat, they respond according to their fight-or-flight instinct. A chained dog, unable to take flight, often feels forced to fight, attacking any unfamiliar animal or person who unwittingly wanders into his or her territory. Numerous attacks on people by tethered dogs have been documented. For example, a study published in the September 15, 2000, issue of the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association reported that 17% of dogs involved in fatal attacks on humans between 1979 and 1998 were restrained on their owners' property at the time of the attack. Tragically, the victims of such attacks are often children who are unaware of the chained dog's presence until it is too late. Furthermore, a tethered dog who finally does get loose from his chains may remain aggressive, and is likely to chase and attack unsuspecting passersby and pets.   6. Why is tethering dangerous to dogs? In addition to the psychological damage wrought by continuous chaining, dogs forced to live on a chain make easy targets for other animals, humans, and biting insects. A chained animal may suffer harassment and teasing from insensitive humans, stinging bites from insects, and, in the worst cases, attacks by other animals. Chained dogs are also easy targets for thieves looking to steal animals for sale to research institutions or to be used as training fodder for organized animal fights. Finally, dogs' tethers can become entangled with other objects, which can choke or strangle the dogs to death.   7. Are these dogs dangerous to other animals? In some instances, yes. Any other animal that comes into their area of confinement is in jeopardy. Cats, rabbits, smaller dogs, and others may enter the area when the tethered dog is asleep and then be fiercely attacked when the dog awakens.   8. Are tethered dogs otherwise treated well? Rarely does a chained or tethered dog receive sufficient care. Tethered dogs suffer from sporadic feedings, overturned water bowls, inadequate veterinary care, and extreme temperatures. During snow storms, these dogs often have no access to shelter. During periods of extreme heat, they may not receive adequate water or protection from the sun. What's more, because their often neurotic behavior makes them difficult to approach, chained dogs are rarely given even minimal affection. Tethered dogs may become "part of the scenery" and can be easily ignored by their owners.   9. Are the areas in which tethered dogs are confined usually comfortable? No, because the dogs have to eat, sleep, urinate, and defecate in a single confined area. Owners who chains their dogs are also less likely to clean the area. Although there may have once been grass in an area of confinement, it is usually so beaten down by the dog's pacing that the ground consists of nothing but dirt or mud.   10. But how else can people confine dogs? The HSUS recommends that all dogs be kept indoors at night, taken on regular walks, and otherwise provided with adequate attention, food, water, and veterinary care. If an animal must be housed outside at certain times, he should be placed in a suitable pen with adequate square footage and shelter from the elements.   11. Should chaining or tethering ever be allowed? To become well-adjusted companion animals, dogs should interact regularly with people and other animals, and should receive regular exercise. It is an owner's responsibility to properly restrain her dog, just as it is the owner's responsibility to provide adequate attention and socialization. Placing an animal on a restraint to get fresh air can be acceptable if it is done for a short period. However, keeping an animal tethered for long periods is never acceptable.   12. If a dog is chained or tethered for a period of time, can it be done humanely? Animals who must be kept on a tether should be secured in such a way that the tether cannot become entangled with other objects. Collars used to attach an animal should be comfortable and properly fitted; choke chains should never be used. Restraints should allow the animal to move about and lie down comfortably. Animals should never be tethered during natural disasters such as floods, fires, tornadoes, hurricanes, or blizzards.   13. What about attaching a dog's leash to a "pulley run"? Attaching a dog's leash to a long line—such as a clothesline or a manufactured device known as a pulley run—and letting the animal have a larger area in which to explore is preferable to tethering the dog to a stationary object. However, many of the same problems associated with tethering still apply, including attacks on or by other animals, lack of socialization, and safety.   14. What can be done to correct the problem of tethering dogs? At least 25 communities have passed laws that regulate the practice of tethering animals. Maumelle, Arkansas; Tucson, Arizona; and New Hanover, North Carolina, are a few communities that prohibit the chaining or tethering of dogs as a means of continuous confinement. Many other communities allow tethering only under certain conditions; Jefferson County, Kentucky, for example, prohibits dogs from being tethered for more than eight hours in any 24-hour period.   15. Why should a community outlaw the continuous chaining or tethering of dogs? Animal control and humane agencies receive countless calls every day from citizens concerned about animals in these cruel situations. Animal control officers, paid at taxpayer expense, spend many hours trying to educate pet owners about the dangers and cruelty involved in this practice.   A chained animal is caught in a vicious cycle; frustrated by long periods of boredom and social isolation, he becomes a neurotic shell of his former self—further deterring human interaction and kindness. In the end, the helpless dog can only suffer the frustration of watching the world go by in isolation—a cruel fate for what is by nature a highly social animal. Any city, county, or state that bans this practice is a safer, more humane community. Courtesy of the Humane Society of the United States ______________________________________________________

Commit Yourself to the Puppies for Life

Responsible breeders know that their responsibility doesn't end when their puppies leave with new owners. They make sure their puppies' new families know they can turn to them with any questions or problems that arise throughout the puppies' lives.

As a breeder, you will be gratified by phone calls and letters describing your puppies' first teeth, birthday parties, and other milestones. You'll be thrilled to receive photos of a puppy's first show win, or portraits with the puppy right in the middle of a happy family. But you will also have to be ready for bad news: a perfect family splitting up and leaving the dog homeless; a vet contacting you about an unforeseen hereditary illness; a dog you thought would be a great obedience prospect biting a young child.

As a breeder, you have to be there with advice and support for all of these situations. You must answer questions, provide resources, and assist with any problem. You must be willing to take back any dog you have bred, at any point in its life, for any reason. You must have a commitment to the puppies you brought into the world for the whole of their lives.

Responsible breeders never turn their backs on the dogs they have bred. Ensuring each puppy's quality of life is their main concern, from the moment they decide to breed to the day the puppy dies - ideally of old age, after a long, happy, fulfilling life.

Last one i swear. I thought i would point the one thing out i have not seen here yet. When you help make something though it may leave its still your place to look in on it time to time. I got these from a book the oldest kennel Club AKC put out called Responsible Breeder. AKC is not talking of just AKC dogs in here but all dogs. I thought this last bit of it was the most importing thing That no one has touched yet.

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Breed to Improve

The motto of the responsible breeder of purebred dogs is "Breed to Improve." Responsible breeders do not breed to make money-because they know they won't. Responsible breeders do not breed to show their kids the marvels of reproduction and birth-because they know that breeding can be a difficult, and sometimes heart-breaking, process. Responsible breeders do not breed their dog just to produce some cute puppies - because they know that each of those cute puppies will require many hours of care, and must be placed with a responsible owner who will continue that care even when the cuteness of puppyhood is over.

Responsible breeders do not breed unless they are convinced that their knowledge, experience, and devotion to their favorite breed will result in a mating that will produce an exceptional litter of puppies, with qualities that are as near as possible to the ideal for that breed. They breed to preserve and to enhance the characteristics that make their breed unique. In short, they breed to improve.

Every dog is the best dog in the world to its owner. Responsible breeders, however, know to avoid "kennel blindness"-- in other words, they take a step back and honestly evaluate the good and bad points of their own dogs before making the decision to breed them. The goal of breeding, after all, is to produce a better dog.

Examine your dog carefully. Recognize its flaws. If you decide to continue with the breeding process, look for a mate that will eliminate or balance those flaws. The National Parent Club for your breed may also provide assistance.

The best way to get an objective opinion of your dog is to test it against others. Enter dog shows to determine how your dog measures up against the best specimens of its breeds. If you want to breed a great obedience dog or a great hunter, enter obedience trials or hunting tests. If your dog is a success at these events, you will be more confident that breeding it will make a contribution to the breed.

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Know Your Genetics

A good breeder will have a basic understanding of the science of genetics. Everything about your prospective puppies-health, soundness, looks, temperament-will be determined by the genes passed on by their parents, and by their parents before them. Therefore, the selection of a mating pair should not be made on the basis of the dog's or bitch's looks (or temperament, or soundness, and so forth) alone, but should be based on an understanding of how the animal's genes contributed to its looks, and of how those genes are passed on and expressed. That is why it is essential to study the pedigrees of your mating pair. The more knowledge you have as you make your selection, the more likely you are to produce a litter with the qualities you desire.

You must also be well-versed in the genetic problems that affect your breed. Genetic defects can occur in any breed and can affect any system in the body. Some genetic diseases may occur in many breeds, others occur in only one or a few breeds. The following is a brief explanation of how genetic defects may be inherited and expressed.

Diseases that follow a dominant pattern of inheritance need only one abnormal gene. That is, if only one parent is affected, the condition will show up in each successive generation. Some individuals may be only mildly affected with the condition, making it difficult to detect. In such cases, the condition can mistakenly be thought to skip generations.

Diseases that follow a recessive pattern of inheritance occur in homozygous individuals, meaning dogs with two abnormal genes. Dogs with one mutant and one normal gene are heterozygous, and they are carriers of the condition. They appear normal but can pass the abnormal gene to their offspring. Recessive mutant genes can be passed through many generations before emerging in the offspring of two dogs that carry the same genetic mutation.

Polygenic disorders result from the cumulative action of a number of different genes. The exact number of genes involved and their individual functions are difficult to determine, and the pattern of inheritance tends to vary from family to family. Polygenic inheritance can sometimes mimic either dominant or recessive inheritance, and this feature may lead to erroneous conclusions regarding the type of underlying genetic abnormality.

Chromosomal anomalies -- defects in chromosome number and structure-can also cause genetic diseases. Dogs normally have 39 pairs of chromosomes on which genes are located. Major abnormalities in chromosome number and structure can produce serious defects.

Whether you inbreed, linebreed, or outcross may have an effect on the incidence of genetic disease in the offspring. Inbreeding is the mating of two individuals that are related through one or more common ancestors. The closest form of inbreeding involves parent-child and brother-sister matings. Linebreeding, a form of inbreeding, usually involves mating more distantly related dogs. The rate of polygenic and recessively inherited diseases tends to increase with inbreeding, because the chance that the two animals carry the same mutation is greater when the dogs are related. Outcrossing is the mating of two dogs of the same breed that are otherwise virtually unrelated.

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Albany, OR -- Would you have a pit bull in your home?

For many dog lovers, this question is becoming increasingly difficult to answer. Reports of dogs attacking humans often involve the American pit bull terrier, a strong breed originally bred for human companionship and later for fighting with other dogs. As the pit, which is also called an American Staffordshire terrier, has become more trendy as a guard or protection dog, it has been increasingly misbred for aggressive tendencies, rather than good temperament.

As a society, we've seen this happen before. Rottweilers, Dobermans and German shepherds have been labeled the "most dangerous breed" in past decades, mostly due to poor breeding and owners that value having a tough, aggressive dog over having a pet that can fit into the family and the community.

Some say the media reports of these attack cases involving pit bulls have been overly hyped, leading people to believe the entire breed is flawed because of a few bad apples. Indeed, pit bulls can be extremely loyal and loving companions.

Let's look at the good news: Pit bulls can be bred and raised to be wonderful dogs. Even dogs that are not well-bred can be good pets in the right household. Do you remember the case last year of former Trail Blazer Qyntel Woods owning and abusing fighting dogs? According to a KGW News report, the two dogs were placed with experienced dog owners — one in the Bend area and one in the Portland area — and have become good family members. The dog in Bend even lives with two cats and does very well.

Most professionals in the animal care field don't see pit bulls as being more aggressive toward humans than other breeds. In fact, a pit bull that has gone through strict temperament evaluations may be one of the best breeds for a family with small children, because they are sturdy dogs that tolerate a lot of handling, grabbing, and attention without reacting negatively.

But there's no question that some pit bulls, without good breeding or upbringing, or under certain circumstances, can be aggressive. These dogs attack other dogs, small animals and even humans. What can you do to lower the risk?

If you own a pit bull or a pit bull mix, recognize that these dogs can be more aggressive, especially to other pets. Take precautions to protect your neighbors and their pets, even if your dog has never misbehaved, by making sure your dog never leaves its fenced yard or kennel without a collar or harness and leash. You may never have an issue with your dog, but you cannot afford to take that risk.

Most attacks, such as one that happened recently in Lebanon, involve a pit bull escaping from the house and going after a smaller dog. In this case, the owner of the smaller dog saw the pit bull coming and protected his own dog with his body. He received bite wounds from the pit bull. The pit bull's owner never meant for him to get out of the house.

Also, it's extremely important that you get your pit bull spayed or neutered as soon as possible. Many veterinarians can perform the surgery on puppies, so there's no excuse whatever the age of your dog. Most dogs involved in attacks are not altered, as in the case of a 12-year-old boy in the San Francisco area killed earlier this month by the family's two pit bulls. Authorities speculate that because the female was in heat, the male dog may have been more aggressive.

As well, spaying and neutering prevents litters of unwanted puppies. If you think you are going to make money breeding pit bulls, it's not the truth. People who want pit bulls can find them easily in the newspaper's classified ads or at shelters. And if you don't know exactly what you're doing, you are likely to produce animals with poor health or temperament.

Are you thinking about getting a pit bull as a pet? Make absolutely sure you do your homework. Good places to start are www.realpitbull.com and www.pitbullsontheweb.com. These sites go into more depth on the good and bad aspects of pit bull ownership and whether the breed is right for you and your situation.

Look for an adult pit bull that has been temperament tested and aced those tests. Local humane societies have these dogs and staff there can tell you exactly what happens during the tests and how the dog performed. Pit bulls that show signs of aggression are not accepted for placement or are euthanized, depending on the shelter's policy, so you're going to find animals least likely to end up with behavior problems. And adults evaluated in this way are more stable than puppies, which may have aggressive tendencies that come to the forefront as the dog grows.

If you own or end up owning a pit bull that has ever exhibited aggressive tendencies, you have a very high responsibility to make sure that dog never comes into a situation that will trigger its aggression. If the dog reacts to other dogs or cats, fine; keep it away from those other animals. But if the dog has behaved aggressively to people, it's time to make a tough decision. Can you realistically keep your dog happy and everyone in your house safe? An unhappy dog that can no longer be allowed outside or on walks may become even more aggressive.

Sometimes, the decision to euthanize has to be made. While this is tragic, it may be necessary for the safety of other members of your family and your community. If more people gave this option thoughtful consideration, and made the hard choice when necessary, we would have fewer attacks from all dog breeds.

Kids and Dogs Safety

The Basics in Dog Safety:

 Be Gentle
This is so important, but so many parents don't notice how rough their children are. A gentle hand will carry them through so many different situations in life, not just meeting animals. When your child approaches a dog, show them how to pet "gently". Don't let them pull on ears or fur, but a gentle rubbing of the fur, or feeling of the ears is okay. Don't let them squeeze handfuls of fur, and make sure they know that a tail is not handhold. If your child has a normally heavy hand, don't use a real dog for the first time, use a stuffed animal. A dog might not be as patient with grabbing hands as you would think.

The Right Approach
This is very important! From the time they first understand, you must teach your children how to approach a dog properly! What is the right way to approach a dog? Approach his owner first and ask permission!

Saying "Hello" After Permission is Given
Approach slowly, do not run up to a dog, ever. Hold your hand out, palm down, and let the dog sniff you. Let him decide how close he wants to get. Many dogs love attention, but the first few moments of every new meeting is critical. A correct approach will likely have the new dog sidling in closer for hugs and kisses.

Fear Factor
Please don't bring your children up to fear all dogs, even if you do. A child who was taught fear will react to a strange dog in a way that may make the situation even worse. Teach them to respect dogs and all other animals instead. Respect their boundaries, not run from them.

Meeting A Strange Dog With No Owners Present

It is very important to keep a cool head during these moments. Do not do what your instincts may tell you to do. The first instinct is often "scream and run", please do not do this. Instead, using a loud, firm voice, tell the dog to "go home". If he doesn't leave, don't panic.

What is he doing? Is he just watching you, curiousity in his posture (ears perked, tail wagging, relaxed stance)? If this is how he looks, just walk away calmly. Again, do not run.

Is he standing in a threatening manner? Ears laid back along his head, his body tense, his tail up (may or may not be wagging slowly, don't be fooled): this a threatening posture. Tell him to "Go lay down" in a firm voice, do not yell, do not scream. Any sudden move on your part may trigger an attack. Start to walk away slowly. Do not make any sudden moves. If he starts to advance on you, and lunges, drop into a "turtle" position, and yell for help. Parents, if you come across your child in this position, do whatever you have to do to get the dog away.

Never Run Away From A Dog
Running will only trigger a "prey" response, and a dog that may have been content to sit and watch will suddenly chase. Even a dog whose only intent is to "play" may cause devastating results when the "prey" is caught.

Never Approach a Dog When He is Eating
Parents, this should be common sense, every child should know this, whether you have pets in the home or not.

Dog Owners, if your dog is food protective, please take the time to train him out of it.

Parents! Never Leave Your Child With a Dog Unattended!
Accidents happen in the blink of an eye, and even the gentlest family dog will bite if he is in pain, or if he has just "had enough".

Parents, please don't hesitate to call animal control if a loose dog ever threatens you or your child. Loose dogs are a menace, and irresponsible owners should be held accountable. Dog owners that do not care where their dog goes and what he does should not be dog owners, period.

http://dogs.about.com/od/dogcarebasi..._kids_safe.htm

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Dog Bite Prevention

Many kids grow up with a dog in the house. And in most cases, it is great. Having a pet has many benefits, including teaching responsibility if your child helps take care of his daily needs. Having a dog also offers companionship and can teach social skills, such as not to be too rough when playing. Plus having a dog can be a lot of fun.

One of the main downsides of allowing your children, especially younger ones, around a dog is that sometimes dogs bite. In fact, the CDC estimates that almost 5 million people a year are bitten by a dog in the United States, with as many as 800,000 people, more than half of them children, requiring medical attention for these dog bites and about a dozen people dying from dog bite injuries.

These dog bites are a big health problem, but one that is largely preventable.

That is why it is important to help reduce your child's chances of being bitten by a dog.

One of the easiest and most important things that you can do is to not leave your younger children alone around a dog, not even the family dog.

According to the CDC, other tips include:

• Carefully choose your pet dog. Evaluate your environment and lifestyles and speak with a professional to determine the appropriate type of pet.
• Dogs should be neutered to reduce aggressive tendencies.
• Be sensitive to cues that a child is fearful or apprehensive about a dog.
• Teach children basic safety around dogs and review regularly.
• Dogs with histories of aggression are inappropriate for families with children.
• Do not play aggressive games with your dog; for example, wrestling.
• Never approach an unfamiliar dog. Immediately report stray dogs or dogs displaying unusual behavior.
• Remain motionless when approached by an unfamiliar dog -- never run or scream.
• Do not disturb a dog that is sleeping, eating, or caring for puppies.
• If knocked down by a dog, lie still and remain in a ball.
• If bitten by a dog, immediately report the bite.

One myth of dog bites is that your child will most likely be bitten by a dog he doesn't know. However, most experts report that about half of dog bites are from a dog that the child may be familiar with, either the family's own dog or that of a neighbor. In one report, Fatal Dog Attacks, 1989-1994, of fatal dog bites, only '22% involved an unrestrained dog off the owner's property.'

Which Dogs Bite?

There are some reports that may indicate that certain breeds of dogs are more likely to bite or be involved in fatal bites than others. For example, one study, Which Dogs Bite? A Case-Control Study of Risk Factors, found that biting dogs were more likely to be 'German Shepherd or Chow Chow predominant breeds, to be male, to reside in a house with one or more children, and not to be neutered' and 'were also more likely to be chained while in the yard.'

Other examples of aggressive dogs, which may have a higher attack rate, include the Bull Terrier, Cocker Spanial, Collie, Doberman Pinsher, Great Dane, Pit bull, Rottweiler, and Siberian Husky.

However, according to the American Veterinary Medical Association, 'There is no such thing as a bad breed of dog. All dogs can bite if provoked.' So instead of concentrating on the breed of dog, you should just keep your kids safe around any dog.

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Treatment of Dog Bites

From Vincent Iannelli, M.D.,
Your Guide to Pediatrics.
 

Kids and Dog Bites

Although most dog bites aren't fatal, many do require medical attention. In addition to basic first aid and cleaning the wound, your child may need antibiotics, a tetanus shot, and/or rabies vaccination after a dog bite. You should seek immediate medical attention for multiple or serious bites, especially in younger children and bites that involve your child's head and neck.

First Aid for Dog Bites

As with other wounds, you should stop any bleeding by putting pressure on the wound and then clean the area extensively. Since dog bites are at big risk of becoming infected, most children should take 3-7 days of an antibiotic, usually Augmentin, to prevent an infection from developing. Keep in mind that most dog bites aren't sutured closed, because of this risk of infection. Bites on the face, or those considered to be 'clean' or quickly seen by the doctor may be sutured at times.

Other preventative measures that you may need to take include getting your child a tetanus shot if they have had less than three doses. Even if they have had three or more tetanus shots, if they have a bite that is not considered clean and minor, they may need a tetanus shot if it is been more than 5 years since their last one. Children with clean, minor bites may also need a tetanus booster if their last one was more than 10 years ago. Since most kids have had 4 tetanus shots by 18 months of age and a booster at 4 and 12 years, they may not need another one after a dog bite.

Rabies

Since most dogs in the United States are vaccinated against rabies, it is not usually a big concern after a dog bite. If your child is bitten by a dog and you are not sure if they have had a rabies shot, you should contact your Pediatrician and/or your local health department or animal control.

Children may need to be treated with Rabies Immune Globulin and rabies vaccine within 48 hours of being bitten if the dog who bit them has not been vaccinated or if the dog can not be found. If the dog was found and its rabies status was unknown, a veterinarian may need to quarantine the dog for 10 days, although rabies vaccine should usually still be given to the child, especially if the dog bite was unprovoked.

BREAKING STICK INFORMATION A breaking stick is a device made to be inserted in the mouth of a Pit Bull (behind the molars) to gently pry its jaws open and release its grip on another animal or object. Remember that Pit Bulls do not have any special mechanism or enzym that allow them to "lock their jaw", but they were bred to have an unmatched determination and to never give up. Please read the following general guidelines before attempting to break a fight using a breaking stick.   WHY EVERY RESPONSIBLE PIT BULL OWNER NEEDS A BREAKING STICK Because Pit Bull dogs have been bred for specific fighting abilities and can cause serious injuries to other dogs if a fight is not broken quickly and efficiently. Keep in mind that most dogs fight differently than Pit Bull dogs. Pit Bull's inherent reaction in the heat of a fight is the one of a Terrier with a prey. They will work to get some sort of grip in a desired place, and then will hold and shake. This is quite different than most other types of dogs who do a lot of random biting, growling and barking but will most likely quit when their opponent shows signs of submission. In many cases, a non-Pit Bull fight will be a lot of noise and snapping jaws, usually resulting in little damage. Since a Pit Bull will firmly grip and hold its victim, breaking sticks have been designed to break their grip. This is the safest, easiest, and most effective way to stop a Pit Bull fight. No responsible owner should be without one.   DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE A BREAKING STICK ON ANY OTHER BREED OF DOG Attempting to use a breaking stick on breeds other than Pit Bull types could result in serious injuries to the person using the stick. Since other breeds will do a lot of snapping and biting instead of getting a grip, it is very easy to get bitten. Do your best to remain away from their jaws. For the same reason, you also need to be very careful when separating your Pit Bull from another breed. Your Pit Bull will probably not bite you, but you may very well get bitten by the dog that you are trying to save. GET MENTALLY PREPARED Make a commitment to sit down right now and plan like you are going to actually break a fight. You will be infinitely better prepared if you have already rehearsed the procedure before the need ever arrives. Look into your dog's mouth and find the gap where the teeth do not meet at the very back of the jaw. This is where you are going to insert the stick. BEFORE GRIP If the dogs don't have a hold yet, you may be able to break the fight by other methods; Jerking the dogs back with the leash or collars, a loud and firm break command, a bucket of cold water, water hose, etc., may be enough to stop certain dogs. We strongly suggest that you don't get your hands anywhere near the mouth of the dogs. If at least one of the dogs has a firm grip on his opponent, your best chance to break it quickly is with the stick.   HOW TO ACTUALLY BREAK THE FIGHT It will be best and safest if there are two people involved, but you can do it by yourself if you have no choice. If both dogs are going at it and you are alone, you might need to tie one of the dogs to something solid. When one of the dogs is tied up, you must "break" the one that is not tied first, and pull him/her off right away. Walk over to the dogs, straddle one that has a hold, and then lock your legs around the dog's hips just in front of the hindquarters. Make sure your legs are locked securely around the dog. Your breaking stick will be in one hand, so with your free hand, grab your dog firmly by his collar and pull upward slightly. Insert your breaking stick behind the molars where the gap is found. Sometimes you need to work the stick in just a bit if the gap is small. The stick should be inserted from ½ to 1½ inches into the dog's mouth. Turn the stick as if you're twisting the throttle of a motorcycle. This is the action that spreads the dog's jaws far enough apart so that you can now pull it back by the collar. If both dogs have a hold, you will then have to break the second dog from the first. Just remember... Straddle, Grab, Break! BE MATURE AND RESPONSIBLE While breaking sticks are effective tools to break an accidental Pit Bull fight, they have been initially created by dog fighters in order to allow them to separate the dogs in a pit. It is a device often associated with the brutal sport of dog fighting. Since Pit Bulls have a strong fighting background, we recommend that pet owners also have a breaking stick as a precaution, even if they don't plan to use it in an illegal context. However, please be discreet. Breaking sticks are not something to brag about and the general pubic might have the wrong impression if you walk around with a stick in your hand. Breaking sticks are not illegal, but they are considered dog fighting paraphernalia in certain states and/or with certain law enforcement agents.

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More on Parting (Breaking) Sticks

Borrowed from APBT FAQ  http://www.nyx.net/~mbur/

In the late 1970s through the late 1980s I lived down the street from one of the most famous APBT breeders of all time, the late Howard Heinzl. Those of you familiar with the breed will immediately recognize his name. It was he who first showed me the use of a "Breaking Stick". Other folks call it a "Parting Stick". If you're around the breed long enough you will eventually witness an accidental fight and it was one of these occasions where I was introduced to the "Breaking Stick". I was visiting Howard one day when one of his bitches, (in heat), got out of her kennel, ran over to one of the other bitches on Howard's yard and YEEHA, they started to fight. Howard calmly walked into the house, came out with what looked like a contoured door stop and tossed it to me. I said, "what the heck is this thing?" He had one too. He said "it's a breaking stick" and that I should quit talking and get my ass over to where the two bitches were trying to kill each other. With a 5 second tutorial from Howard I was able to help him break the dogs apart in about 10 or 15 seconds and that, my friends, is considered slow! I became a believer in breaking sticks from that point on.

THE FIGHT:

There comes a time in the life of every dog, be it a small terrier or the powerful APBT, when it will get into some sort of a scrap. Those of you who frequent dog shows for the APBT will no doubt eventually be witness to dogs getting loose and starting a fight. So, what happens when they are serious? Well, each dog will bite the other, take hold and start to shake its head punishingly. It is so serious that in most cases nothing you do will cause the dog/bitch to give up that precious hold! Nothing! Choking, shocking, etc...It just doesn't matter!

BREAKING/PARTING STICK:

Known by both names. It is a very hard piece of wood or some other material suitable for the purpose of spreading a dog's jaws apart. It is usually about 5 to 8 inches in length, wedge shaped and contoured to prevent injury to the dog's lips. Its width is about 1 to 2 inches.

THE TECHNIQUE:

Okay, imagine two dogs engaged in serious combat and each one has a very good hold on the other. Now, I'm assuming there are two of you and you are both right handed.

STEP 1) Walk over to the dogs and as simultaneous as possible step over, straddle and then lock your legs around the dog's hips just in front of the hind quarters. Make sure your legs are locked securely around the dog.

STEP 2) With your free/left hand grab a handful of skin from the back/nap of the neck and pull upward as if you are a mother canine picking up a young puppy. A strong grip on the skin is needed here. We are accomplishing two things, one is to neutralize the mobility of the dog by locking our legs around it's hips and the other is to neutralize mobility of the front torso by way of a skin hold on the back of the dog's neck.

Before I continue with STEP 3, let's review what has now happened. Not wanting to let go, the dogs are still holding on to each other and each handler has his dog in a tight leg squeeze just in front of the stifle/hind quarters while at the same time holding the dogs front section by way of skin on the back of the dog's neck.

Sidebar: When looking in your dog's mouth notice a gap where the teeth do not meet. This 'pre molar' area is why the breaking stick is so effective.

STEP 3) Each handler inserts his breaking stick in the pre molar area where the gap is found. Sometimes you need to work the stick just a bit if your dog is biting real hard. The stick should be inserted from 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches into the dog's mouth.

STEP 4) Now, as if you're twisting the throttle of a motor cycle, so too you must twist the breaking stick. This is the action that spreads the dog's jaws far enough apart so that you can now pull back with the other hand. Viola, the dog is off! I like to also use my legs for those big dogs when pulling them off.

It is that simple.

Now, I have a few comments about the mechanics of a dog fight. The first is that ALL dogs use their hind quarters for both leverage and mobility and it is the most important place to start when stopping a fight. Once you remove the back end from the equation you've stopped 75% of a fight. It's amazing, most of the time you'll see the dogs quit shaking and moving as soon as they feel their hind quarters locked by your legs. They almost freeze! Once their movement is under control it's super easy to grab the neck and insert the stick.

Holding the neck with your free hand helps prevent a dog from biting you while stopping the fight. I've broken lots of accidental fights and all those times I have never been bitten by an APBT. But, I have been biten by other breeds because of the way they fight.

My final comment is that with a little practice you can stop a serious dog fight in about 5 seconds, on the average. It's so easy you can't believe it, straddle/grab/break and you're finished! No unnecessary damage due to pulling, beating or whatever else one might employ!

So, the next time you're playing with your dog, open the mouth and you'll see the GAP I mentioned. Then, when you get your 'stick', just play tug-o-war or have the dog grab something and try your breaking stick then.

Dog Aggression

Dog aggression is any behavior meant to intimidate or harm a person or another animal. Growling, baring teeth, snarling, snapping and biting are all aggressive behaviors. Although aggressive behaviors are normal for dogs, they’re generally unacceptable to humans. From a dog's perspective, there’s always a reason for aggressive behavior. Because humans and dogs have different communication systems, misunderstandings can occur between the two species. A person may intend to be friendly, but a dog may perceive that person's behavior as threatening or intimidating. Dogs aren’t schizophrenic, psychotic, crazy, or necessarily "vicious," when displaying aggressive behavior. Because aggression is so complex, and because the potential consequences are so serious, we recommend that you get professional in-home help from an animal behavior specialist if your dog is displaying aggressive behavior.

Beginning signs of aggression Young puppies up to the age of six months will sometimes act aggressively and even snap at or bite someone. These beginning signs of aggression are usually easy to correct because of the pup’s age, size, and lack of maturity. Young dogs, six to ten months old, represent a different quality and degree of aggression but are still considered manageable and, through reconditioning, can be corrected. A dog older than ten months, who is acting aggressively and has bitten someone, is much more difficult to recondition, and the aggressive behavior can sometimes not be changed. No matter what solution one tries, there is no guarantee that a mature dog who has already bitten someone will never bite again. You have a potentially very dangerous situation on your hands! The body language or signs of defensive aggression displayed by a puppy are: a prolonged direct stare, raised hackles, growling, showing his teeth, arching his body, and curling his tail between his legs. If any of these signs are present during the following circumstances, you should be concerned and need to get professional help: eating sleeping and suddenly disturbed being petted, especially when your hand is drawn over the top of his head approached by strangers approached by other dogs protecting toys protecting the house or yard being groomed or examined being around children Any dog who is not trained, that is, does not understand his subordinate position to you, will try to become "top dog." One example of this is when a dog repeatedly jumps up on you. An out of control dog is like a belligerent teenager, always pushing to test the boundaries. This behavior can be a prelude to aggressive behavior. Assert your dominance! Get your dog trained! Teach him to respect you and others near and dear to you. If you are concerned about your dog’s aggressiveness, seek the guidance of a professional dog trainer. In the meantime, confine or muzzle your dog whenever people are present.    Types of Dog Aggression

Dominance Aggression: Dominance aggression is motivated by a challenge to a dog's social status or to his control of a social interaction. Dogs are social animals and view their human families as their social group or "pack." Based on the outcomes of social challenges among group members, a dominance hierarchy or "pecking order" is established (see our handout: "Dealing With Dominance In Dogs"). If your dog perceives his own ranking in the hierarchy to be higher than yours, it’s likely that he’ll challenge you in certain situations. Because people don’t always understand canine communication, you may inadvertently challenge your dog's social position. A dominantly aggressive dog may growl if he is disturbed when resting or sleeping, or if he is asked to give up a favorite spot, such as the couch or the bed. Physical restraint, even when done in a friendly manner, like hugging, may also cause your dog to respond aggressively. Reaching for your dog's collar, or reaching out over his head to pet him, could also be interpreted by him as a challenge for dominance. Dominantly aggressive dogs are often described as "Jekyll and Hydes" because they can be very friendly when not challenged. Dominance aggression may be directed at people or at other animals. The most common reason for dogs in the same family to fight with each other is instability in the dominance hierarchy (see our handout: "Canine Rivalry"). Fear-Motivated Aggression: Fear-motivated aggression is a defensive reaction and occurs when a dog believes he is in danger of being harmed. Remember that it’s your dog's perception of the situation, not your actual intent, which determines your dog’s response. For example, you may raise your arm to throw a ball, but your dog, perceiving this to be a threat, may bite you because he believes he is protecting himself from being hit. A dog may also be fearfully aggressive when approached by other dogs. Protective, Territorial And Possessive Aggression: Protective, territorial and possessive aggression are all very similar, and involve the defense of valuable resources. Territorial aggression is usually associated with defense of property. However, your dog's sense of territory may extend well past the boundaries of "his" yard. For example, if you walk your dog regularly around the neighborhood and allow him to urine-mark, to him, his territory may be the entire block! Protective aggression usually refers to aggression directed toward people or animals that a dog perceives as threats to his family, or pack. Dogs become possessively aggressive when defending their food, toys or other valued objects, such as Kleenex stolen from the trash! Redirected Aggression: This type of aggression is relatively common, but is a behavior that pet owners may not always understand. If a dog is aroused into an aggressive response by a person or animal that he is prevented from attacking, he may redirect this aggression onto someone else. A common example occurs when two family dogs become excited, bark and growl in response to another dog passing through the front yard. The two dogs, confined behind a fence, may turn and attack each other because they can’t attack the intruder. Predation is usually considered to be a unique kind of aggressive behavior, because it’s motivated by the intent to obtain food, and not primarily by the intent to harm or intimidate. Individual Variation Dogs differ in their likelihood to show aggressive behavior in any particular situation. Some dogs tend to respond aggressively with very little stimulation. Others may be subjected to all kinds of threatening stimuli and events, and never attempt to bite. The difference in this threshold at which a dog displays aggressive behavior is influenced by both environmental and genetic factors. If this threshold is low, a dog will be more likely to bite. Raising the threshold makes a dog less likely to respond aggressively. This threshold can be raised using behavior modification techniques. How easily the threshold can be changed is influenced by the dog's gender, age, breed, general temperament, and by whether the appropriate behavior modification techniques are chosen and correctly implemented. Working with aggressive dogs can be potentially dangerous, and should be done only by, or under the guidance of, an experienced animal behavior professional who understands animal learning theory and behavior. What You Can Do First check with your veterinarian to rule out medical causes for the aggressive behavior. Seek professional help. An aggression problem will not go away by itself. Working with aggression problems requires in-home help from an animal behavior specialist. Take precautions. Your first priority is to keep everyone safe. Supervise, confine and/or restrict your dog’s activities until you can obtain professional help. You’re liable for your dog’s behavior. If you must take your dog out in public, consider a cage-type muzzle as a temporary precaution, and keep in mind that some dogs can get a muzzle off. Avoid exposing your dog to situations where he is more likely to show aggression. You may need to keep him confined to a safe room and limit his people-contact. If your dog is possessive of food, treats or a certain place, don’t allow him access to those items. In an emergency, bribe him with something better than what he has. For example, if he steals your shoe, trade him the shoe for a piece of chicken. Spay or neuter your dog. Intact dogs are more likely to display dominance, territorial and protective aggressive behavior. What Not To Do Punishment won’t help and, in fact, will make the problem worse. If the aggression is motivated by fear, punishment will make your dog more fearful, and therefore more aggressive. Attempting to punish or dominate a dominantly aggressive dog is likely to cause him to escalate his behavior in order to retain his dominant position. This is likely to result in a bite or a severe attack. Punishing territorial, possessive or protective aggression is likely to elicit additional defensive aggression. Don’t encourage aggressive behavior. Playing tug-of-war or wrestling games encourages your dog to attempt to "best" you or "win" over you, which can result in the beginning of a dominance aggression problem. When dogs are encouraged to "go get 'em" or to bark and dash about in response to outside noises or at the approach of a person, territorial and protective aggressive behavior may be the result.    General advice 1) Don't approach a strange dog, especially one which is tied up or confined 2) Before you attempt to pet a dog, ask permission from the owner. Let the dog become familiar with you by allowing him to see and sniff the back of your closed hand. 3) Never leave children unsupervised with any dog, no matter how trustworthy 4) If a dog is not be trusted with children or visitors to the home, then consider muzzling it. Modern muzzles allow free air passage and drinking, and do not frustrate the dog.   If threatened by a dog 1)Stand still 2) Don't scream 3) Avoid eye contact with the attacking dog but don't lose sight of him either. Try to remain motionless 4) Keep your hands reasonably high. Moving hands tend to be the first part of your body to be bitten 5 If you have anything to hand, like a briefcase or shopping bag, use it to block the approach of the dog. If you are a cyclist, don't cycle harder because most dogs can outrun a cyclist. Jump off your bike and position your bicycle between you and the dog. 6) If you are knocked down, lie still, curl into a ball and play dead - this is especially important for children. 7) If you are carrying food, use it to distract the dog. 8) If these things are not getting the dog away from you and you cannot see the owner, then shout 'sit', because most dog owners have trained their dog to sit and many dogs will obey it automatically. 9) Don't ever turn your back on the dog and never, ever run. The dog's natural instinct is to chase and catch prey. Most dogs do not have the courage to confront someone who is still but they may have a bite of someone's backside if they are on the run.

Temperament Testing For Puppies By Kathy Diamond Davis Author and Trainer Puppy temperament testing is both science and art. Much of a dog’s temperament is genetically based. We continue to learn more ways the behavior is shaped by physical traits, including invisible or subtle ones. Dogs have different structures in their eyes that cause them to actually see the world differently, just as one example. By the time a puppy is old enough for a temperament test—commonly 7 to 8 weeks, though other ages work well, too—the pup’s experiences in life have also affected temperament. Even at this tender age, it’s not possible to say with absolute certainty that a particular trait is solely genetic and not at all learned. Indeed, you can dramatically improve a puppy’s responses on a temperament test by good handling and good experiences. The changes you make in the test scores this way wouldn’t be inherited by that puppy’s offspring. And yet the ability to benefit similarly to such handling and to show improved test scores from it might well be passed on to pups. The mother dog’s behavior affects the puppies through her contact with them. She passes her genetic material to them and then heavily influences their early life experiences. Clearly it’s in everyone’s best interests to make sure mother dogs have good genetics, good health care, good training, good conditioning to human handling, good socialization to everything that will be around when rearing pups—and even good experiences when pregnant. She is far, far more than an incubator! Which One to Pick? People enjoy puppies, and some insist on adopting their dogs only in puppy hood. Puppy temperament testing offers a tantalizing promise of predicting the pup’s adult temperament. The tests seem simple and tend to be scored in easy numbers such as one through five. It sounds easy! Sometimes, though, you simply cannot tell what that puppy will be like as an adult. Puppy testing became well known after the publication of Clarence Pfaffenberger’s book “The New Knowledge of Dog Behavior.” Every dog lover will enjoy reading this fascinating book about the puppy testing and handling methods that revolutionized the selection and rearing of puppies for guide dog training. Considering the time and expense that goes into training a guide dog—not to speak of the hopes and dreams and the genuine need for the service of the dog—the choice of a dog to put into the program takes on great importance. The new methods raised the success rate from around 9 percent to about 90 percent! The jobs dogs are trained to do have expanded many times over since the book’s first printing in 1963. One of the most important jobs dogs do today is unofficial, and that is the job of companion to humans. Particularly where there is a vulnerable human in the household, suitable behavior from the dog becomes critical. We also now work with dogs in other assistance roles for people with disabilities, as therapy dogs to provide emotional support for humans, in several police roles, multiple military roles, search and rescue, arson detection, termite detection, customs, border protection, livestock herding, livestock guarding, drug detection in schools, security for people at high risk, and many other jobs. New tasks that dogs can perform in partnership with humans are found all the time. Dog training has become so sophisticated that we now know how to elicit behaviors in dogs that in the past we had to just hope would happen by accident. The rub, though, is finding the right dog. Just like people, individual dogs are different, with different strengths and weaknesses. Breed is a clue as to what a dog might be trainable to do, but far from a guarantee. Bloodline is another clue, but puppies in the same litter can be quite different from one another. If you see them grown up trying to do the same job with two different handlers, it’s not unusual to note that those dogs would be better matched with the opposite of the handlers they have! It’s easy to see why puppy temperament tests have become routine. They are far from perfect in predicting how the pup will turn out, but any information helps. Keep in mind, though, that puppies change a LOT as they mature, and the effects of experiences they have later will not show in puppy testing. We all think we can give our puppies the perfect upbringing, but of course there is no such thing as a life free of mistakes and accidents. If you need a known temperament for a specific purpose, a young adult dog is a better choice than a puppy, and plenty are available. The Tests Where can you find a puppy temperament test? There are many. The Pfaffenberger book goes into great detail. Susan Clothier wrote a puppy testing booklet. Carol Lea Benjamin wrote one. William Campbell’s book “Behavior Problems in Dogs” includes a puppy temperament test. Wendy Volhard developed one of the best-known tests. Other puppy tests have been devised by all sorts of organizations and individuals in attempts to choose the right dogs for their needs. Each trainer will have a different personality, different physical abilities, and will often be teaching the dog different tasks using different training methods. With experience, each program and each trainer learn to narrow the criteria of testing to come closer and closer to the ideal dogs for their work. To pick the test that best fits your needs, study as many as you can find, in books, online, at seminars, from your puppy’s breeder, from rescue and shelter workers, from experts in the work you want to do with your dog, and anywhere else you can—BEFORE you choose a puppy! Here are some of the elements you are likely to find on a puppy temperament test: 1. Take the puppies one at a time to an unfamiliar but comfortable setting for the test. Ideally the person handling the pups will be a stranger to them, possibly taking directions from someone who knows the test. It’s important to handle each pup exactly the same. Videotaping is a good idea, along with taking notes. 2. Test the puppies more than once, because one test might catch some of them at an off time physically and give an inaccurate result. The puppies are jetting through critical development periods at these ages, too, and not all at the same pace. 3. A good breeder or caretaker will have many observations on each puppy to share with you, so listen carefully and consider these with the test results. 4. The breeder has that all-important genetic knowledge (or should have) that puts the test results into the context of what a puppy with those test results of that breed AND bloodline is likely to be like as an adult. The more you know—the more you’ll know! Testing pups of known genetics is more accurate than testing pups from unknown bloodlines. Tests on mixed breed pups leave a lot of room for error. 5. Restraining the puppy gently with tummy up is a common test. You would want to see different responses depending on the temperament you need. As with many things in life, there is not just one “right” answer. Few handlers would be looking for the puppy who fights this restraint, but some people want the dog to struggle just a little before accepting it. They feel that shows certain working qualities. Reading the dog is important, too. The dog who just lays there might be relaxed — or frozen with fear. 6. Another test is to lift the puppy off the ground. You’re looking for the degree and duration of resistance to being held in the air. 7. Young puppies tend to follow, and how much the pup follows you when you walk away can indicate the degree of interest in humans. 8. Kneeling or squatting and calling the puppy—remember to call each puppy exactly the same way—also shows the pup’s interest in humans. 9. Touch sensitivity is sometimes tested with pressure of thumb and forefinger squeezing the webbing between two toes, counting slowly to ten as the pressure is increased. Fingernails are not used, and the pressure is stopped when the dog gives any reaction at all. 10. The tester may teach the pup a simple skill such as sitting for a treat, looking for trainability, response to praise, response to food, and other qualities. 11. Retrieving instinct can be tested by getting down on the ground with the puppy and tossing a light, appealing item forward a few feet. You gently restrain the pup and make sure the puppy is interested in the item first, and then you toss it in a way that causes the pup to visually track it. You release the pup to run to it. You’re looking for any part of the sequence: a) run to the item, b) pick up the item, c) carry the item, d) start back to you with the item, e) carry the item part or all of the way to you, and f) deliver the item to your hand. If the puppy does bring the item to you, give it right back to the puppy to reinforce this terrific response. If the pup runs out and grabs it, you’ve got something to build on. If the puppy runs out, grabs it, and carries it, that’s outstanding, too. 12. In a non-frightening way, pups are often tested with unusual sights, sounds, footing, and other experiences. These experiences, as well as the whole temperament evaluation, should be made enjoyable for the puppy. There is no excuse for hurting or frightening a puppy in the name of temperament testing! Puppies soak up learning like sponges, and temperament testing should contribute to a puppy’s future, never detract from it. Who Gives the Test? Your best bet when getting a puppy is to deal with someone who thoroughly knows the genetics of the litter and is an expert in that breed. Such a person will be happy to arrange puppy testing because it enhances her own knowledge of the litter. You will want the benefit of all possible information from the testing she routinely does. Most of us are well served by letting this knowledgeable person choose the pup for us—making sure, of course, to be completely honest with her so she can best know what kind of pup will make a good match. It’s highly possible she will choose a different pup for you than you would choose for yourself, and that her choice for you will be better. She will also have the advantage of observing the puppies in other settings, probably for many hours. She brings a real depth of familiarity with those puppies to the task of choosing the best one to join your family. If you have a specific job in mind for your dog, talk to experts in that work and find out what puppy tests they consider applicable and what responses they like to see to those tests for their working purposes. Find out the rationale behind their methods—you want to understand as much as possible prior to any testing. A video of your prospective pup and littermates being tested will allow you to study the test over and over, and to get the opinions of experts about the pup you are considering. If you need to give the test yourself, do your homework FIRST! The puppy will be different the second time you test, the third time, the fourth time—every time is a learning experience for the puppy that will change the response the next time. Any interaction you have with the puppy prior to the test will also have an effect, especially if you have spent more time with one puppy than with the others. Puppy temperament testing is a task you may have better success getting an expert to do for you than other favors. Follow all wishes of the puppy owner as to infection control procedures, which include not going from one kennel to another in the same day. Puppy immune systems are immature, and you certainly don’t want to make them sick. Does It Work? Experts disagree about the accuracy of puppy temperament testing. Breeds vary greatly, and so do the reasons we test the pups. Different people train differently—and often do not realize just how differently. The meaning of a puppy’s responses to a test is open to wide interpretation. This is certainly part of the art and skill that an experienced tester brings to the task. Having tested puppies and then known those puppies as adult dogs will help refine a person’s ability to see a response on a puppy test and look to what that response is likely to mean in the adult that this baby dog will become. So, does puppy temperament testing work? Sometimes it works very well. Most of the time it probably helps at least some, if the person who trains the dog makes good use of the knowledge to shape the temperament in the desired direction. Provided the puppy is always treated well in the process of testing, it’s certainly worthwhile to do it. The people have fun, the puppy learns, and human knowledge of dogs moves forward.   Temperament Testing Adult Dogs By Kathy Diamond Davis Author and Trainer When adopting a dog, the two qualities people want more than any others are good health and good temperament. Both are heavily influenced by genetics and are also affected by how the dog has been treated. Experiences have had opportunity to alter the temperament of adult dogs. Some use the term “temperament” to describe only behavior the dog has inherited. In this thinking, only inherited elements of the dog’s behavior would be passed on to offspring. Determining where inheritance leaves off and experience begins is never quite possible, but always worth making the effort when seeking a dog for breeding. That effort also requires learning all you can about other dogs in the bloodline. Another word for what we’re trying to evaluate in a dog to adopt is “personality,” though some people object to attributing any aspect of personhood to a canine. Whatever term used, we need to remember that dogs behave largely out of instincts, some quite different from human instincts. Expecting a dog to perceive the world in human terms or to behave like a human is unfair to the dog and can even be dangerous. We evaluate a dog’s temperament by interacting with the dog and taking note of the dog’s behavior in response to ours. We also observe the dog’s reactions to things such as noises, strange sights, other animals and different walking surfaces. Because behavior can be profoundly affected by the dog’s physical state, the dog needs to be examined by a veterinarian prior to temperament testing. Some medical conditions call for postponing the test, while knowing about some other conditions will give you better information for determining the meaning of behaviors seen on the test. For example, a dog’s reluctance to move from lying down to standing or sitting would not be surprising if that dog has a sore knee or hip, and would not reflect on the dog’s attitude toward commands or on the dog’s ability to learn. Purpose of Testing A temperament or personality desirable for one purpose is often undesirable for another purpose. A meaningful test requires knowing the situation for which the dog is being tested. Will the dog be trained to join an active person in dog sports or long daily walks, and spend a lot of quiet time with the same person? Or is this a quest for a dog to hang out in a household with young children where an adult has just enough time to provide the dog with basic care? Often the purpose is to find a dog for specific dog sports, hunting, assistance dog work, therapy dog visits, herding, search and rescue or other specialized need. It can’t be stressed enough how important it is to include someone with expertise in that field in the selection and testing of the dog. Experts love to help match the right dog with the right home. Such happy events help to offset the heartbreaks inevitable in work with dogs. Without the expert help, people choose the wrong dogs. We act out of emotion, out of incomplete information, out of expedience because someone offers a free dog—often with sad results. If the dog turns out to be ill-suited for the job, the choices are all difficult. You can place the dog in another home, which is sad. You can keep the dog and give up on the job you had wanted to do with a dog. Or you can push the dog to do a job the dog doesn’t enjoy. The first responsible action in dog ownership is choosing a dog you are equipped to responsibly care for and control. So get that expert help! Unless your situation is such that it’s really not wise to get a dog at this time, chances are the right dog for you is out there somewhere. But without the right help, you might never find that good match. In advance of talking to the expert, take plenty of time to write out what you are looking for in a dog and what you have to offer to a dog in terms of time, training, home facilities, and other factors. List your children and the other people and animals the dog will need to be around. List your prior dog ownership and dog training experience. Be totally honest. An expert will see the dog’s potential, but needs your help to see yours. For a skilled dog trainer, a dog who is not housetrained, who destructively chews furniture, and who jumps all over people is just a basic training job. For you it might be beyond the training you want to do, are capable of doing, or have time to do. The expert needs to know these things. Be as specific as possible. Then, for clarity’s sake, go through and organize the information. Make it easy for another person to read and refer back to while narrowing down dog choices and evaluating specific dogs. The better the expert understands your needs, the better for you. You may need to pay for the temperament evaluation, or you may not. It’s certainly worth paying for, if it’s done well. Preparations Prior to the temperament test, you need the best possible history on the dog, with all the information you can gather. If this is not written out for you already but is available by word of mouth, make a written record. You also need to do thorough breed research and decide what breeds you will consider prior to meeting any dogs. An expert conducting the test for you should be familiar with the expected and desired reactions of the breeds being tested. [For more on this and some simple tests you might use, see Adopting a Shelter Dog.] The dog needs to be on leash in a reliable collar. The test will require some props, including at least dog toys, a ball, a food dish and a chair. The test needs to be in an area where you won’t be disturbed; preferably a place the dog has never been, with at least one skilled dog handler the dog has never met. That person can do the actual handling of the dog while at least one other person helps, observes, and takes careful notes. A videotape is a good idea. If you want to test the dog around other dogs, cats and/or children, a separate person needs to direct and control these individuals for safety. You want only children who are good with dogs, only dogs who are reliable with other dogs, and the cat carefully protected. Tests Available Experts have devised many different dog temperament tests. When choosing a dog for a performance purpose, testing seeks to determine whether the dog is going to be able to physically, mentally and emotionally perform the task for the duration of a career. Equally important is whether the dog is likely to learn effectively and perform reliably when trained with the methods the trainer plans to use. A dog being chosen for training with an electronic collar is likely to be different from a dog wanted for clicker or play-oriented training. The American Temperament Test Society awards titles to dogs who pass a test that includes protection reactions. This type of testing is useful for prospective Schutzhund dogs. Sue Sternberg has developed a test for shelter dogs that checks closely for aggressive tendencies. Experts differ on exactly what evaluation for aggression is appropriate for stressed-out shelter dogs, but no one wants to see dogs adopted out who subsequently bite people. If a shelter you visit uses this or any other temperament test, get all possible details for deciding whether or not to adopt the dog. You can find information on Sternberg’s test in her book “Successful Dog Adoption.” Trish King’s book “Parenting Your Dog” includes testing information for selecting a shelter dog as a puppy, adolescent or adult, based on her extensive experience. The adolescent dog—and many dogs in that age range are available for adoption—can bond quickly with a new person. The dog’s behavior at this age may still be very open to modification with good training. The downside is that adolescent dogs are changing so much that you may not get accurate results from testing, unless an excellent history on the dog is available. The AKC’s Canine Good Citizen Test evaluates trained behavior along with temperament. It’s not the kind of test you expect to pass with a strange dog. It is certainly a good sign if a dog you are considering adopting has passed the Canine Good Citizen Test with a former owner. But since the test evaluates dog and handler as a team, it doesn’t indicate whether the dog will work equally well with you as handler. Jack and Wendy Volhard have created a test of dog personality based on the four drives of pack, prey, defense fight, and defense flight. This isn’t really a test you could “give” to a strange dog. It’s a series of questions you answer about the dog’s known behavior, which means you have to get to know the dog first. If you have a dog you are seeking to better understand, it’s a fantastic tool for that purpose. You can find it online and also in their book “Dog Training for Dummies.” It’s especially helpful in finding the best ways to help your particular dog learn. Test Accuracy A temperament test given once can only look at a dog’s behavior in that one situation at that time. It is a great tool for detecting behavior that needs to be watched more closely and improved by handling and training. It gives limited information about how much improvement you might be able to achieve. Dogs keep changing, especially when their life circumstances have recently changed. One way to get a good temperament evaluation is for a dog to spend at least a few weeks in a foster home. The dog’s initial behavior, the behavior observed over time by the foster person, and one or more temperament tests given after the dog has been in a stable situation for this time will give much more accurate information. When you want to adopt a rescue dog and temperament will be important to the dog’s success in your home, a dog who has spent time in a knowledgeable foster home can be ideal. Of course we need to be especially careful of temperament in homes with young children. A behavior problem that could be handled by adults with time to train and facilities to keep the dog out of trouble in the meantime can be fatal to a dog in a home with children. When a dog injures a child, it’s more often the dog who dies rather than the child. Temperament testing is a fascinating way to better understand your dog. Once you have chosen a dog, occasional evaluation can point out ways to fine-tune your training for best communication between the two of you. Good temperament testing can help you find and train your dream dog.   Kathy Diamond Davis is the author of the book Therapy Dogs: Training Your Dog to Reach Others. You can email Kathy at MrsGoodPuppy@aol.com for personal answers to your canine behavior and training questions! Should the training articles available here or elsewhere not be effective, contact your veterinarian. Veterinarians not specializing in behavior can eliminate medical causes of behavior problems. If no medical cause is found, your veterinarian can refer you to a colleague who specializes in behavior or a local behaviorist. Copyright 2005 - 2005 by Kathy Diamond Davis. Used with permission. All rights reserved.   PART 2 Responsible ownership Responsible dog ownership is something that needs to be taken seriously in this country. For some reason, America, the land of the free, places more restraints on canines than most European countries. In many "old world" countries, dogs are allowed everywhere in public. People take their pets shopping with them, to church with them, and to the pub with them. What made America take on such a negative view of pet ownership, that it started placing restrictions on where we could go and what we could do with our dogs? Could it be that some pet owners, because of their irresponsibility, have caused American merchants and government officials to take on a "better be safe than sorry," and "don't allow them a chance because of what they might do" kind of an attitude? That's a shame, because most of the dog owners I associate with are very responsible, and it's too bad that they have to be "limited" or punished for the past transgressions of others. If we want to turn around the attitudes about dogs in this country, we have to try to make all dog owners take responsibility for their pets and become "model citizens." This is part of the goal of Dog Scouts of America. What does it mean to be a responsible dog owner? Being a responsible dog owner is easy, but it involves many things. It means making sure that your dog is not a nuisance. Basically this means being a "good citizen." It means making sure that your dog does not roam freely, destroy property, chase livestock, maul children or other animals, leave excrement behind where he goes in public, or become a nuisance barker, or in other ways decrease the quality of life of others in your community. It boils down to proper control, good training, cleaning up after your dog's messes, and providing your dog with enough physical exercise and mental stimulation that he does not create his own "vices" out of frustration. Dogs were meant to share our homes with us and be our companions. That is the right reason for getting a dog. People who get dogs for the "wrong" reason, often end up regretting their decision to get the dog in the first place, and the dog often becomes relegated to the backyard tied to a doghouse and forgotten about. Or, the dog is "thrown away"--surrendered to an animal shelter or dog pound to get rid of the burden. Dog ownership should not be a "burden." If you get a dog for the right reasons and are committed to giving that dog the love, care, attention, socialization and training that he deserves you will be able to honor your commitment to being his partner and caregiver his whole life long. Some of the "wrong" reasons to get a dog are: For Protection.  This is a scenario that almost always goes bad. People think that if they get a dog, it will automatically be protective of their family. This is not true. Some people even keep their dogs away from other people and fail to socialize them properly, in an effort to make them more "protective." Here's a news flash--improperly socialized dogs are not barking because they are protective. On the contrary, they are usually barking out of fear because they have become "wary" of strangers. If left with the choice of defending the owner, or turning and running, this fearful, unsocial zed dog would head for the hills. The other mistake people make is to encourage the dog to bark by tying him outside and creating a territorial aggression problem. This is a lawsuit waiting to happen. What happens when a child wanders up into the dog's territory. There are thousands of cases each year where children are hurt or killed in this unfortunate scenario. If you want your dog for protection, why would you tie him out back to the tree? Do you need that tree protected? If you really want a dog to protect your home and hearth, the place he should be is inside. And courage is something that is only built through proper socialization at an early age, which will make your dog comfortable around all kinds of people. If all you really wanted was a "junkyard dog," don't waste a valuable canine life dooming a dog to that kind of misery. Buy one of those electronic taped "vicious barking" devices which is triggered by motion. It's less expensive and requires no maintenance. A Companion for the Kids.  Another poor choice. Children often beg their parents for a dog, promising to take responsibility for the care of the animal. It takes a few days to a few weeks for this to wear off, and the dog's care ends up the responsibility of the already overworked and too busy homemaker (usually the "mom"). Since it was not the mother's idea to get the dog in the first place, she often tires of taking on the added duties of canine care and maintenance. She doesn't have time to properly train the dog, and he starts to develop bad habits that the average owner has no idea how to "fix." This is often how dogs end up in the shelters and pounds. People underestimate the commitment of being responsible for a dog's upkeep, and they just "give up" and throw away the dog. How convenient. What about that loving animal who you promised you would love his whole life long? What is he thinking when you drag him off to a dog pound and drive away without him, leaving him in that strange place filled with the smell of other abandoned dogs and the dead ones which have been "put to sleep" (a euphemism for executed--KILLED--because their owner could not or would not take responsibility for his welfare any longer. Did you know that 80,000,000 dogs each year are killed in pounds and humane societies because they developed "behavior problems?" It's the number one reason for surrender of an animal. If you're not prepared to train your dog to be a well-mannered member of the family, then perhaps you should get the kids a stuffed dog, instead. They don't require much effort to maintain. To Breed.  If you're a hobby breeder, then you already realize the huge undertaking this is. You realize that you must spare no expense to keep your dog in top condition, feeding the best premium dog foods. You know that before you breed, you must research the dog's background thoroughly to make sure the animal does not potentially carry any undesirable hereditary health problems, like hip displasia, elbow displasia, night blindness, deafness, or predisposition to any number of other hereditary problems, like seizures or rage syndrome. You know that you must also carefully research and require proof of clear hips, eyes and other potential problems from the person whose dog you plan to breed to. You also realize to raise a healthy litter of quality puppies, you do not make money. At best you are prepared to break even, but will probably not come out ahead. As a hobby breeder, you are not in this for the money, anyway, but because of your love of the breed, and the desire to perpetuate the excellent traits that your dog possesses. Dogs weren't meant to be puppy making machines. This is dog abuse. Places which maintain dogs strictly for the production of offspring to sell to pet stores or other buyers are called "puppy mills." Dogs used to "manufacture" the product (a constant supply of cute puppies) are kept in deplorable conditions. Anyone who purchases a puppy at a pet shop is guilty of perpetuating this heinous activity. Responsible dog owners will caution their friends about this problem, and will never purchase a puppy from a pet shop. Most responsible pet owners try to "boycott" the perpetuation of this animal cruelty for the sake of making a fast buck, and will not purchase ANYTHING at a pet shop which sells puppies. If you just bought a nice, pet quality dog, and don't want to show it in the breed ring at dog shows, the best thing you can do for your pet is have it spayed or neutered. I will repeat the statistic that 80,000,000 dogs are killed in shelters and pounds each year. There is a serious pet overpopulation problem in this country. There just aren't enough homes for all of the dogs which are brought into the world. Don't contribute to the problem. If you don't have a plan for finding excellent homes for all of your puppies, and aren't prepared to keep them all yourself, think twice about breeding your dog. The right reason to get a dog is the same as the right reason for having a child. You intend to do all that you can to make him a productive member of society. You are committed to properly socializing him during those all-important "critical periods." You intend to take him to dog school, to teach him how to behave himself in everyday situations (obedience training is not just for people who want to enter dog shows and compete!). You will become involved in activities you and your dog enjoy, which will provide physical activity and socialization as well as mental stimulation (like agility, Frisbee fetching, jogging, swimming, and learning tricks). You will protect him from harm, try to instill manners and teach him right from wrong. And most importantly, you will sign on for a lifelong commitment to care for and love that dog, providing proper nutrition, good hygiene, physical exercise, mental stimulation, getting regular health checks and vaccinations and providing medical care when needed. Where does responsible dog ownership start? Responsible dog ownership starts before you even get a dog.  You should put a great deal of thought into adopting a dog, because you must make a commitment to that dog for his lifetime.  You should research the breeds which you think would be best for you based on the breed's "job description."  Border Collies and Jack Russell Terriers are smart--you see them in all of the television commercials.  But if you won't be happy with a dog that will need enormous amounts of mental stimulation to keep that busy mind from creating games of its own (like redecorating the house or chasing/biting/shredding the children), then you should choose a dog that is a little "easier" to maintain.  If you think you want a Labrador, but you don't want to invest the time to properly train him, and he grows up to be 80 pounds of trouble bouncing off the walls, don't you DARE cart him off to the animal shelter and tell the people "he just got too BIG!"  If you research the breed, you would KNOW how big he was going to get, and you would know that Labs are very energetic animals that need training for basic control and an outlet for all of that natural energy (he needs a "hobby," like flyball). A young dog will require extensive amounts of proper socialization to grow up to be well-adjusted.  Puppies need to be taken out to meet people of all different shapes and descriptions.  They must be exposed to all kinds of sights, sounds and environments as a youngster, so that when they are older, these sights, sounds, people and environments will not be scary to them.  A puppy needs to have a great deal of time devoted to proper housebreaking.  You can't just turn him loose in the house and punish him if you find accidents.  You must constantly monitor his whereabouts and activities, taking care of the "food-in, food out" business at regular intervals.  A puppy needs to be learn routines and some human vocabulary, to get along in our world.  He should be trained to obey simple commands, so that he will do what he is told when you need him to do it (like, "go to your bed," "be quiet," and "leave it alone").  Some basic obedience skills are also very important, so that your puppy will stay when told, walk on a leash and come to you when called.  If this sounds a lot like having a child, you're right!  And it should!  The commitment should be the same. Perhaps in doing your research, you find that you do not have the time in your life for a new puppy. There are many rescue groups out there which have older dogs available for adoption.  These dogs have often already been housebroken, and may even have received some training.  The original owner may have had to part with the dog for health reasons, or because they were not prepared for the enormous undertaking that was in store for them, and they let the dog learn all kinds of bad habits which were intolerable to them.  Sometimes the dog just proved to be more energetic than the family would have liked (they should have gotten a STUFFED dog!).  Regardless of the reason, there are any number of excellent "second-hand" dogs available through these rescue groups. If you're not fussy about the breed characteristics, and feel like taking potluck, you could adopt a mixed breed.  If you can determine the parentage of the dog, you may get an idea about whether or not he'll like water, pull a sled, retrieve, or do whatever else it is you might like to do with your dog.   Mixed breeds are wonderful dogs.  They have a "pedigree" just like everyone else does.  It's just that sometimes, no one bothered to write it down.  They're just as noble, just as smart, and just as worthy to be your lifelong friend as any of the registered purebreds.  All dogs are EQUAL in value.  When you pay more for a registered purebred, you're paying for the record-keeping and the registration.  You're paying for paper!  Your dog will love you the same, no matter what his parents looked like. So you adopt a wonderful dog or puppy and bring it home.  What do you do next? Well, remember all of those BEHAVIOR books you read BEFORE you got your dog?  This is the time to put that advice into action.  Remember all of the books that the trainer you called a few months back recommended?  "The Culture Clash," by Jean Donaldson, "The NADOI Good Puppy Handbook," by Fahrenwald, Olson, Morrison and Ryan, Social Graces," by Margery West...  You should be well-armed to tackle any of the growing pains you may encounter in raising your new dog or puppy.  Get your clicker and some treats and start teaching your dog how to live with you.  He hasn't a clue what your rules, morals or expectations are.  You have to show him what's expected.  You have to reward the absence of bad behaviors.  You have to give him a new behavior to replace any of the "bad" ones he may have already been taught.  You're going to enroll him in a puppy or adult training course which uses behavioral approaches to training (not the outdated, punishment methods that are sometimes called "traditional" training). Pretty soon, you'll see that a dog is capable of learning amazing things.  Many people say their dogs mind better than their kids, but they're probably lying.  If people are good dog trainers, they are also good child raisers, and their children will mind as well as, if not better than, their dogs do!  All of the principles of dog training (the way WE do it) can be used in child rearing with great success.  You may have even taken up a few hobbies with your dog, like Animal Assisted Therapy visits at the local nursing home or hospital.  You may have become involved in agility or flyball, to keep your dog's active mind and energetic body from developing "idle time" useless (and possibly destructive) habits.  Instead of barking and digging holes in the yard, your dog jogs 2 miles with you on a loose leash every day, brings you the newspaper, and performs tricks for your friends. By now, you may have realized that there are more than plenty great dogs in the world already, and that you don't need to contribute to the overpopulation problem, so you've had your pet spayed or neutered.  You've had him to the vet regularly, and he is up on all of his shots.  He's been through two obedience classes, two agility classes, and has joined a flyball team.  He is a model citizen.  You have done a great job at training him to behave himself, and he is a joy to be around.  You probably even have a deposit down to go to Dog Scout Camp this summer, where you can continue to learn about the skills you can develop together. Guess what?  You have now become a responsible dog owner!  But now, your job has just begun... Don't you get tired of being discriminated against because you have a dog?  Don't you wish OTHER people would clean up after their dogs at the park so that the laws that prohibit your GOOD DOG from having fun would ease up a little?  Don't you wish that everyone were a responsible dog owner, LIKE YOU? How can I help promote responsible dog ownership? The only thing we can do to protect ourselves is to make everyone else become responsible dog owners.  Now, we have to "convert" the other 90% of the population to be responsible.  We have to teach the others.  One way to do this is by example.  When people see you acting responsibly, then they are more likely to follow suit.  When you see a stray poop at the park, pick it up.  When you're in public with your dog, treat him kindly, so that others can observe the joys of owning a well-behaved dog.  Become involved in events in your community.  Attend walk-a-thons with your well-mannered pet.  Talk to friends and strangers about training without force. While you're at it, talk to them about ALL aspects of responsible dog ownership.  Join groups that promote responsible dog ownership, like Dog Scouts of America.  Pass this web site on to every dog owner you know. www.DogScouts.com   Responsible ownership Responsible dog ownership is something that needs to be taken seriously in this country. For some reason, America, the land of the free, places more restraints on canines than most European countries. In many "old world" countries, dogs are allowed everywhere in public. People take their pets shopping with them, to church with them, and to the pub with them. What made America take on such a negative view of pet ownership, that it started placing restrictions on where we could go and what we could do with our dogs? Could it be that some pet owners, because of their irresponsibility, have caused American merchants and government officials to take on a "better be safe than sorry," and "don't allow them a chance because of what they might do" kind of an attitude? That's a shame, because most of the dog owners I associate with are very responsible, and it's too bad that they have to be "limited" or punished for the past transgressions of others. If we want to turn around the attitudes about dogs in this country, we have to try to make all dog owners take responsibility for their pets and become "model citizens." This is part of the goal of Dog Scouts of America. What does it mean to be a responsible dog owner? Being a responsible dog owner is easy, but it involves many things. It means making sure that your dog is not a nuisance. Basically this means being a "good citizen." It means making sure that your dog does not roam freely, destroy property, chase livestock, maul children or other animals, leave excrement behind where he goes in public, or become a nuisance barker, or in other ways decrease the quality of life of others in your community. It boils down to proper control, good training, cleaning up after your dog's messes, and providing your dog with enough physical exercise and mental stimulation that he does not create his own "vices" out of frustration. Dogs were meant to share our homes with us and be our companions. That is the right reason for getting a dog. People who get dogs for the "wrong" reason, often end up regretting their decision to get the dog in the first place, and the dog often becomes relegated to the backyard tied to a doghouse and forgotten about. Or, the dog is "thrown away"--surrendered to an animal shelter or dog pound to get rid of the burden. Dog ownership should not be a "burden." If you get a dog for the right reasons and are committed to giving that dog the love, care, attention, socialization and training that he deserves you will be able to honor your commitment to being his partner and caregiver his whole life long. Some of the "wrong" reasons to get a dog are: For Protection.  This is a scenario that almost always goes bad. People think that if they get a dog, it will automatically be protective of their family. This is not true. Some people even keep their dogs away from other people and fail to socialize them properly, in an effort to make them more "protective." Here's a news flash--improperly socialized dogs are not barking because they are protective. On the contrary, they are usually barking out of fear because they have become "wary" of strangers. If left with the choice of defending the owner, or turning and running, this fearful, unsocial zed dog would head for the hills. The other mistake people make is to encourage the dog to bark by tying him outside and creating a territorial aggression problem. This is a lawsuit waiting to happen. What happens when a child wanders up into the dog's territory. There are thousands of cases each year where children are hurt or killed in this unfortunate scenario. If you want your dog for protection, why would you tie him out back to the tree? Do you need that tree protected? If you really want a dog to protect your home and hearth, the place he should be is inside. And courage is something that is only built through proper socialization at an early age, which will make your dog comfortable around all kinds of people. If all you really wanted was a "junkyard dog," don't waste a valuable canine life dooming a dog to that kind of misery. Buy one of those electronic taped "vicious barking" devices which is triggered by motion. It's less expensive and requires no maintenance. A Companion for the Kids.  Another poor choice. Children often beg their parents for a dog, promising to take responsibility for the care of the animal. It takes a few days to a few weeks for this to wear off, and the dog's care ends up the responsibility of the already overworked and too busy homemaker (usually the "mom"). Since it was not the mother's idea to get the dog in the first place, she often tires of taking on the added duties of canine care and maintenance. She doesn't have time to properly train the dog, and he starts to develop bad habits that the average owner has no idea how to "fix." This is often how dogs end up in the shelters and pounds. People underestimate the commitment of being responsible for a dog's upkeep, and they just "give up" and throw away the dog. How convenient. What about that loving animal who you promised you would love his whole life long? What is he thinking when you drag him off to a dog pound and drive away without him, leaving him in that strange place filled with the smell of other abandoned dogs and the dead ones which have been "put to sleep" (a euphemism for executed--KILLED--because their owner could not or would not take responsibility for his welfare any longer. Did you know that 80,000,000 dogs each year are killed in pounds and humane societies because they developed "behavior problems?" It's the number one reason for surrender of an animal. If you're not prepared to train your dog to be a well-mannered member of the family, then perhaps you should get the kids a stuffed dog, instead. They don't require much effort to maintain. To Breed.  If you're a hobby breeder, then you already realize the huge undertaking this is. You realize that you must spare no expense to keep your dog in top condition, feeding the best premium dog foods. You know that before you breed, you must research the dog's background thoroughly to make sure the animal does not potentially carry any undesirable hereditary health problems, like hip displasia, elbow displasia, night blindness, deafness, or predisposition to any number of other hereditary problems, like seizures or rage syndrome. You know that you must also carefully research and require proof of clear hips, eyes and other potential problems from the person whose dog you plan to breed to. You also realize to raise a healthy litter of quality puppies, you do not make money. At best you are prepared to break even, but will probably not come out ahead. As a hobby breeder, you are not in this for the money, anyway, but because of your love of the breed, and the desire to perpetuate the excellent traits that your dog possesses. Dogs weren't meant to be puppy making machines. This is dog abuse. Places which maintain dogs strictly for the production of offspring to sell to pet stores or other buyers are called "puppy mills." Dogs used to "manufacture" the product (a constant supply of cute puppies) are kept in deplorable conditions. Anyone who purchases a puppy at a pet shop is guilty of perpetuating this heinous activity. Responsible dog owners will caution their friends about this problem, and will never purchase a puppy from a pet shop. Most responsible pet owners try to "boycott" the perpetuation of this animal cruelty for the sake of making a fast buck, and will not purchase ANYTHING at a pet shop which sells puppies. If you just bought a nice, pet quality dog, and don't want to show it in the breed ring at dog shows, the best thing you can do for your pet is have it spayed or neutered. I will repeat the statistic that 80,000,000 dogs are killed in shelters and pounds each year. There is a serious pet overpopulation problem in this country. There just aren't enough homes for all of the dogs which are brought into the world. Don't contribute to the problem. If you don't have a plan for finding excellent homes for all of your puppies, and aren't prepared to keep them all yourself, think twice about breeding your dog. The right reason to get a dog is the same as the right reason for having a child. You intend to do all that you can to make him a productive member of society. You are committed to properly socializing him during those all-important "critical periods." You intend to take him to dog school, to teach him how to behave himself in everyday situations (obedience training is not just for people who want to enter dog shows and compete!). You will become involved in activities you and your dog enjoy, which will provide physical activity and socialization as well as mental stimulation (like agility, Frisbee fetching, jogging, swimming, and learning tricks). You will protect him from harm, try to instill manners and teach him right from wrong. And most importantly, you will sign on for a lifelong commitment to care for and love that dog, providing proper nutrition, good hygiene, physical exercise, mental stimulation, getting regular health checks and vaccinations and providing medical care when needed. Where does responsible dog ownership start? Responsible dog ownership starts before you even get a dog.  You should put a great deal of thought into adopting a dog, because you must make a commitment to that dog for his lifetime.  You should research the breeds which you think would be best for you based on the breed's "job description."  Border Collies and Jack Russell Terriers are smart--you see them in all of the television commercials.  But if you won't be happy with a dog that will need enormous amounts of mental stimulation to keep that busy mind from creating games of its own (like redecorating the house or chasing/biting/shredding the children), then you should choose a dog that is a little "easier" to maintain.  If you think you want a Labrador, but you don't want to invest the time to properly train him, and he grows up to be 80 pounds of trouble bouncing off the walls, don't you DARE cart him off to the animal shelter and tell the people "he just got too BIG!"  If you research the breed, you would KNOW how big he was going to get, and you would know that Labs are very energetic animals that need training for basic control and an outlet for all of that natural energy (he needs a "hobby," like flyball). A young dog will require extensive amounts of proper socialization to grow up to be well-adjusted.  Puppies need to be taken out to meet people of all different shapes and descriptions.  They must be exposed to all kinds of sights, sounds and environments as a youngster, so that when they are older, these sights, sounds, people and environments will not be scary to them.  A puppy needs to have a great deal of time devoted to proper housebreaking.  You can't just turn him loose in the house and punish him if you find accidents.  You must constantly monitor his whereabouts and activities, taking care of the "food-in, food out" business at regular intervals.  A puppy needs to be learn routines and some human vocabulary, to get along in our world.  He should be trained to obey simple commands, so that he will do what he is told when you need him to do it (like, "go to your bed," "be quiet," and "leave it alone").  Some basic obedience skills are also very important, so that your puppy will stay when told, walk on a leash and come to you when called.  If this sounds a lot like having a child, you're right!  And it should!  The commitment should be the same. Perhaps in doing your research, you find that you do not have the time in your life for a new puppy. There are many rescue groups out there which have older dogs available for adoption.  These dogs have often already been housebroken, and may even have received some training.  The original owner may have had to part with the dog for health reasons, or because they were not prepared for the enormous undertaking that was in store for them, and they let the dog learn all kinds of bad habits which were intolerable to them.  Sometimes the dog just proved to be more energetic than the family would have liked (they should have gotten a STUFFED dog!).  Regardless of the reason, there are any number of excellent "second-hand" dogs available through these rescue groups. If you're not fussy about the breed characteristics, and feel like taking potluck, you could adopt a mixed breed.  If you can determine the parentage of the dog, you may get an idea about whether or not he'll like water, pull a sled, retrieve, or do whatever else it is you might like to do with your dog.   Mixed breeds are wonderful dogs.  They have a "pedigree" just like everyone else does.  It's just that sometimes, no one bothered to write it down.  They're just as noble, just as smart, and just as worthy to be your lifelong friend as any of the registered purebreds.  All dogs are EQUAL in value.  When you pay more for a registered purebred, you're paying for the record-keeping and the registration.  You're paying for paper!  Your dog will love you the same, no matter what his parents looked like. So you adopt a wonderful dog or puppy and bring it home.  What do you do next? Well, remember all of those BEHAVIOR books you read BEFORE you got your dog?  This is the time to put that advice into action.  Remember all of the books that the trainer you called a few months back recommended?  "The Culture Clash," by Jean Donaldson, "The NADOI Good Puppy Handbook," by Fahrenwald, Olson, Morrison and Ryan, Social Graces," by Margery West...  You should be well-armed to tackle any of the growing pains you may encounter in raising your new dog or puppy.  Get your clicker and some treats and start teaching your dog how to live with you.  He hasn't a clue what your rules, morals or expectations are.  You have to show him what's expected.  You have to reward the absence of bad behaviors.  You have to give him a new behavior to replace any of the "bad" ones he may have already been taught.  You're going to enroll him in a puppy or adult training course which uses behavioral approaches to training (not the outdated, punishment methods that are sometimes called "traditional" training). Pretty soon, you'll see that a dog is capable of learning amazing things.  Many people say their dogs mind better than their kids, but they're probably lying.  If people are good dog trainers, they are also good child raisers, and their children will mind as well as, if not better than, their dogs do!  All of the principles of dog training (the way WE do it) can be used in child rearing with great success.  You may have even taken up a few hobbies with your dog, like Animal Assisted Therapy visits at the local nursing home or hospital.  You may have become involved in agility or flyball, to keep your dog's active mind and energetic body from developing "idle time" useless (and possibly destructive) habits.  Instead of barking and digging holes in the yard, your dog jogs 2 miles with you on a loose leash every day, brings you the newspaper, and performs tricks for your friends. By now, you may have realized that there are more than plenty great dogs in the world already, and that you don't need to contribute to the overpopulation problem, so you've had your pet spayed or neutered.  You've had him to the vet regularly, and he is up on all of his shots.  He's been through two obedience classes, two agility classes, and has joined a flyball team.  He is a model citizen.  You have done a great job at training him to behave himself, and he is a joy to be around.  You probably even have a deposit down to go to Dog Scout Camp this summer, where you can continue to learn about the skills you can develop together. Guess what?  You have now become a responsible dog owner!  But now, your job has just begun... Don't you get tired of being discriminated against because you have a dog?  Don't you wish OTHER people would clean up after their dogs at the park so that the laws that prohibit your GOOD DOG from having fun would ease up a little?  Don't you wish that everyone were a responsible dog owner, LIKE YOU? How can I help promote responsible dog ownership? The only thing we can do to protect ourselves is to make everyone else become responsible dog owners.  Now, we have to "convert" the other 90% of the population to be responsible.  We have to teach the others.  One way to do this is by example.  When people see you acting responsibly, then they are more likely to follow suit.  When you see a stray poop at the park, pick it up.  When you're in public with your dog, treat him kindly, so that others can observe the joys of owning a well-behaved dog.  Become involved in events in your community.  Attend walk-a-thons with your well-mannered pet.  Talk to friends and strangers about training without force. While you're at it, talk to them about ALL aspects of responsible dog ownership.  Join groups that promote responsible dog ownership, like Dog Scouts of America.  Pass this web site on to every dog owner you know. www.DogScouts.com   PART 3 Responsible Dog Ownership DISEASES AND TREATMENT Taken from The Sporting Bull Terrier The health of your dog is generally assured if proper attention to his environment be zealously maintained. But conditions may arise, indeed, frequently do, which no one could guard against, and the result is derangement of the dog's health, abnormal conditions which we term disease. So, granting the contingency, the manner of meeting it should be carefully studied that serious harm may be averted. As in the human family, the large majority of deaths occurring among dogs is found in those under a year old And the disease that carries off the majority of the canine race is the contagion known as distemper That this is a germ disease has been clearly proven by eminent specialists like Millais, Dr. Cecil French and Galli Valerio. A dog exposed to this disease is pretty apt to be affected, unless his vitality is unimpaired and his conditions of living perfect. The Bull Terrier has as good resisting powers as any breed, and if his strength has not previously been exhausted, he will not be an easy victim Pure bred dogs are much more liable to this disease than mongrels, for the evident reason that their lives are largely artificial. A dog raised for show and breeding purposes can no more be allowed to roam at his own discretion than can a court lady be allowed to mix with the common herd. But his artificial life can be so carefully adjusted that he will scarcely be injured by its unnatural conditions. Excessive in-breeding is a source of much weakness in dogs, and its value is questionable. Nature asserts the same laws here as in the human family. Dogs deprived of full liberty must have stated times for exercise, and their kennel environment must be as cheerful and wholesome as possible. To guard against this dread disease, two general rules can be laid down: I. Keep your dogs in dry, warm, cheerful, commodious kennels, with plenty of water and good, wholesome food. Give them all the exercise that their active nature demands. 2 Use every precaution to not expose them to the contagion. If the first rule is rigidly observed, you have so strengthened your dog's resisting powers that if exposure to the germ does occur, he is likely to resist it altogether or to experience it in only a mild form. The complications arising from distemper are more to be dreaded than the disease itself, for if the dog has an impaired or weakened organism, the distemper germ is sure to find it out and begin its ravages there. The general symptoms of the disease are a dry, hard nose, increased temperature, quickened pulse, extreme thirst, and later, discharges from the nose and eyes. In the early stages, careful nursing will effect much more than medicine The patient should be isolated immediately and his quarters made as comfortable as for a human being. A dry, warm bed, plenty of fresh air, water and sunshine should be provided. If he is constipated, the bowels should be opened with a dose of syrup of Buckthorn and sweet oil, one or two tablespoonfuls of each, according to his age. Two or three times a day give a cupful of milk into which has been poured a tablespoonful of strong tea made of sweet fern leaves; the tea will allay inflammation. Feed freely with nourishing food; beef or mutton broth, raw beef minced fine, milk and raw eggs. If the patient refuses to eat, he should be forced to, if his strength appears to be failing. Be careful not to irritate him, and keep him quiet and scrupulously clean. Watch every symptom carefully, and if your dog was in good health when attacked, he will be convalescent in a few days under this treatment. But convalescence is not health, and this is a critical period in distemper. Do not relax your care and watchfulness until full health is entirely restored. In case of complications affecting the nervous system, resulting in chorea, no medicine is required, except in severe cases a tonic of cod liver oil, in teaspoonful doses three times a day, mixed in a cup of milk. This, with nourishing food and careful nursing, will bring the patient through all right. Paralysis following distemper is usually hopeless, unless it be only in the hinder parts, which is usually caused by constipation, and disappearing when the cause is removed. Mange is a disease that is due to a very small parasite that burrows in the skin, and when properly attended to in its earliest stage, is easily eradicated, but if neglected, the skin becomes so thickened that it is difficult to reach the parasite by any remedy that could be safely applied to the skin of the dog. So to guard against the approach of this disease, your dogs should be examined carefully every week; this can be done by passing the hand over every portion of his body, and if the skin is rough or pimply to the feeling, the parasite is probably at work. Apply at once an ointment made of balsam of Peru and sulphur, each one ounce, with six ounces of lard. These should be thoroughly mixed without heating, and freely applied three or four times a day, and rubbed in gently. Continue this treatment for a week or so. In cases of long standing, the same treatment may be applied, but the dog should be thoroughly washed with warm water and castile soap to remove all dirt and scabs, that the ointment may penetrate as far as possible into the skin. If the disease does not yield to this treatment, sulphurous acid diluted in six times its bulk of water, may be freely applied once or twice in twenty-four hours, according to the severity of the case. Carbolic acid is sometimes used with good effect as far as killing the parasite is concerned, but its absorption into the system is apt to have some bad effect upon the dog's health. If it is used, three drams to one quart of water is about the right proportion, and when applied should not be allowed to remain more than two or three minutes, when it should be washed off with strong soapsuds.  Among the many troubles to which puppies of all breeds are liable, that of diarrhoea is one of the most frequent. It may be set up—most often, perhaps, is—by worms; or, again, it may be due to the change of food when they leave the dam. But, whatever the originating cause is, the immediate cause is intestinal irritation, set up by foetid matter, which needs to be removed Now, the great mistake many people make in treating this complaint is m giving chalk mixtures, which in reality tend to increase rather than diminish the dysenteric symptoms It is far better to give a mild purge— say a good dose of sweet oil or a little castor oil, which will, as a rule, carry off the whole trouble. At the same time the cause must be inquired into, and, if it be due to worms, a proper dose of worm medicine must be administered, and a careful watch must always be kept afterwards for any sign of a reappearance of the parasites. If, however, the cause appears to be merely the food supply, this should be changed accordingly. Worms in young dogs is a very frequent ailment, and if your pups become affected, feed them all the sour milk they will eat. When kept clean and fed properly the trouble will scarcely become serious, and lobbered milk will surely bring forth the parasites. If the puppy is afflicted in large numbers, withhold the meal at night, and give him a pan of sour milk in the morning. Among the most common symptoms of worms are a hot, dry nose, unusual appetite, bloated abdomen, dry and staring coat, an offensive breath and a hacking cough. For worms in young puppies one of the very best remedies extant is Dr. Clayton's Vermifuge in soft capsules, and the liquid vermifuge or worm pills are effective in older dogs. We are glad to recommend the Clayton remedies for any of the many ailments of your dogs. You will find the list of remedies in Dr. Clayton's advertisement in this book.   First Aid Kits and Emergency Treatments - Prepare Now! Those who have faced emergencies can tell you it is essential to get your first aid kit together and get familiar with first aid measures BEFORE you are confronted with an accident, emergency or sudden illness. Many situations require fast and correct action to prevent further injury, infection or death. So assemble a first aid kit now, so that you’ll be ready when your pet (or a human) needs immediate help. Be sure to read through the First Aid Kit list that follows. It will give you an idea of the situations that can and do come up. Being prepared can keep a manageable incident from becoming health-threatening. It will reduce the chance of infection and further complications... reduce stress for everyone...cut recovery time...and empower you to effectively help. Being prepared can even make the difference between life and death. FIRST AID KIT Keep a first aid safety kit on hand at home and in your car. Take the one from your car with you when you travel with your pet. Each kit should include the items listed. It might sound like a lot of stuff, but when an accident occurs, these items can help you save the health or life of an animal...or a human. Waterproof Kit Container: Write on the container, in indelible ink, the phone numbers for your vet, the closest emergency animal hospital, and poison control hotlines. Also list your own name, address and phone numbers. First Aid Guides: Animal first aid book, such as “The First Aid Companion For Dogs and Cats”, Dog Owner’s Home Veterinary Handbook (http://www.doctordog.com/dogbook/dogch01.html), and Cat Owner’s Home Veterinary Handbook (http://www.doctordog.com/catbook/catch01.html) CPR instructions – download the online brochures listed later in this tipsheet. Essential Vet and Contact Info: Prepare and make copies of a list including: Phone number for your vet, the closest emergency animal hospital, and poison control hotlines (such as the 2 listed in this tipsheet). Your own name, address and phone numbers. Your emergency contact person’s numbers, in case you are incapacitated. The name, age, breed, sex, identification (such as microchipping information), and any health problems (especially useful information if your petsitter or emergency contact needs to call an emergency medical service about your pet. A copy of your pet vaccination records. Photo of each pet in case it is needed for ID or other purposes. Kit Supplies: Scissors Tweezers (flat slant tip instead of the rounded variety) Sterile needle (to remove splinters and tick heads) Turkey baster or bulb syringe (for flushing wounds and administering medications) Eyedropper Rubber gloves Nail clippers Comb Rectal thermometer (normal body temperature of dogs and cats is 100.5 to 102.5 F; take your pet’s temperature under normal conditions to get a baseline for comparison in case he gets sick or injured) Disposable safety razor (for shaving fur from around a wound) Towel (at least 2) Paper towels Blanket (the compact thermal blanket works well; uses include keeping an injured animal from going into shock) Bandanna and/or nylon stocking (many uses, including muzzling or securing a torn earflap) Strips of cloth Dog booties or little socks (to cover wounded paws or to protect so you won't need to treat) Flashlight Matches 3x3 sterile gauze pads Rolled gauze (for bandaging, stabilizing joints, making a muzzle) Adhesive first aid tape (in narrow and wide widths) Cotton rolled Cotton balls Bandages (including self-clinging or vet wrap and waterproof types) Anti-bacterial wipes or pads Q-tips Hot/cold pack Ice pack Hydrogen peroxide 3% USP (to induce vomiting and to use on infected wounds; check the expiration date from time to time and keep only fresh solution in your kit) Activated charcoal tablets (effective in absorbing many toxics) Syrup of Ipecac (to induce vomiting). Betadine solution (a type of antiseptic iodine medicine for wounds to deter infection) Antibiotic ointment (such a Neosporin) Rubbing alcohol (apply on skin as body cooling agent to aid heat stroke or fever; helps break down oils; acts as a drying agent between toes and skin folds; but do not use on wounds as it can damage skin and is not an appropriate antiseptic) Bag Balm (especially useful for treating paw pads) Petroleum jelly (helpful aid for taking temperature) Sterile saline eye solution (to flush out eye contaminants and wounds) Artificial tear gel to lubricate eyes after flushing Eye ointment with no cortisone Epsom salt (mix 1 teaspoon in 2 cups of warm water for drawing out infection and bathing itchy paws and skin) Baking soda (good for soothing skin conditions) Styptic powder (to stop bleeding of torn toenails, etc.) Milk of magnesia (for stomach upset and certain types of poison ingestion) Pepto Bismol (for stomach upset and some types of poison ingestion; do not give to cats) Kaopectate (OK for cats and dogs) Benadryl (for bug bites and stings) Gentle pet sedative such as Rescue Remedy (available at health food and some pet supply stores) Aspirin (for dogs only, 1 tablet per 60 pounds; do not use acetaminophen or ibuprofen; do not give aspirin to cats; since aspirin and other pain relievers can be toxic to any pet, consult your vet and first aid books) Can of soft pet food (can help reduce the effect of a poisoning) Mild grease-cutting dishwashing liquid such as Dawn (to clean contaminated skin or sticky substances) Plastic baggies Muzzle (an injured or scared animal may try to bite) Nylon leash Pet crate or carrier (a safe, calming place for your pet and a safe way to transport) Also have in your car: Bottled water Bowl or other container to use for water Spare leash   Other suggested items: Slicker brush Tick scoop (handy little device for removing ticks) Treats containing sugar (in case the animal experiences hypoglycemic or low glucose episode) Betadine Swab Sticks Panalog (a healing cream) Nexaban (a type of skin glue to glue a wound closed if necessary) Penlight (to see how the pupils respond to light; in normal animals, pupils decrease in size when exposed to light) * If you prefer to purchase a ready-made kit, good choices include: Medi+ Pet Deluxe First Aid Kit http://www.naturespet.com/firstaidkit.html The Hiker First Aid Kit for Canines http://www.ruffwear.com/products/firstaid * If someone is taking care of your pet while you're away: show them where you keep the first aid kit and vet records, your vet and emergency animal hospital info, how to contact you, and the name and phone number of a friend or relative in case you are unavailable. In addition, let your vet know in advance who you have authorized to take your pet to the vet in your absence, and that you will pay for any emergency visit. FIRST AID TREATMENT * Hit by a car, hard falls or other high-impact injuries: Rush the animal to the closest animal hospital. First, place the dog on a firm surface, such as a plywood board. If a board is not available, place the animal in a blanket. Keep the animal as steady as possible to prevent further injury. * Poisoning: If there is any possibility that your pet came into contact with a poison, go to the vet immediately, since the onset of symptoms could be delayed a day or even two...and by then, it may be too late. If you cannot get to the vet immediately, waiting for a ride, or are stranded, you can call either of these 24-hour emergency hotlines staffed with experienced veterinarians: ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center 1-888-4-ANI-HELP or 1-888-426-4435 National Animal Poison Control Center 1-800-548-2423 Fees apply to these nonprofit hotlines, which are staffed by veterinarians. Call immediately, and have this info ready: * Your name, address and telephone number. * The type of the poisonous substance the pet was exposed to. Be as specific as possible about the subtance, the amount ingested or contacted, the time since exposure, etc. Have the container/packaging available, because the label will identify the product’s active ingredients. * The species, breed, age, sex, weight and number of animals involved. * The symptoms the animal is experiencing. * Antifreeze poisoning: If you suspect your pet may have ingested antifreeze, take him to the vet or emergency animal hospital immediately! Immediate treatment is essential to prevent a painful death. Initial signs include excessive thirst and urination, lack of coordination, weakness, nausea, tremors, vomiting, rapid breathing and heart rate, convulsions, diarrhea and paralysis. Not all signs may be evident. The final stages of poisoning are characterized by oral and gastric ulcers and renal failure, followed by death. Ethylene glycol is the toxic component in antifreeze. Vets have a test kit to confirm the presence of the poison in the body. If positive, ethanol (vodka or wood grain alcohol) or a newer antidote will be administered intravenously. The goal is to prevent the ethylene glycol from metabolizing to its toxic components. Dialysis can be used to remove the ethylene glycol from the blood stream. If you are delayed in getting to the animal hospital, it is often recommended to induce vomiting immediately. And some people have had success giving their dogs vodka or other alcohol orally, followed by water. The alcohol reportedly interferes with the body’s processing of the ethylene glycol before it fully metabolizes. However, it is imperative to first call a vet for guidance, and if your vet is not available, call your nearest emergency animal hospital and/or one of the phone hotlines listed in this tipsheet. * When to induce vomiting: For many types of poisoning, it is advised to induce vomiting, soon after ingestion before the chemical can do damage. These include ingestion of arsenic (in rat and mouse poisons), chocolate, insecticides, lead, matches, medications (except tranquilizers), plants, shampoo, shoe polish, slug and snail bait, strychnine and weed killers. However, unless you are stranded somewhere, induce vomiting only under the direction of a vet, physician or poison emergency hotline staff member. It is critical to properly identify the ingested substance. To induce vomiting in pets, give the animal household hydrogen peroxide 3% USP by mouth, using a syringe or turkey baster. Do not try to pour it down his throat. Instead, pull his lips away from the side of the mouth to make a pocket, in which you will deposit the liquid. It is suggested to use 1 teaspoon per 5 pounds of the animal’s weight, to a maximum of 3 to 4 tablespoons. Before dosing, first give the animal a little bread or other soft food so there is something to bring up along with the stomach contents. If he has not vomited after 15 minutes, repeat the dose of hydrogen peroxide one more time. After vomiting, some folks recommend giving the animal a teaspoon of Epson salts mixed in some water to help empty the intestine. Activated charcoal is also used to induce vomiting in pets. It has the ability to absorb and deactivate many toxins, preventing the poisons from reaching the blood stream. Activated charcoal tablets also help when you don’t have access to a clean water supply. Mix a tablet of activated charcoal in 2 teaspoons of water. Give 1 teaspoon per 2 pounds body weight and follow with a pint of water. While syrup of Ipecac been used to induce vomiting, a growing number of veterinarians, physicians and FDA/public health officials discourage its use for people and animals. Do not feed salt water or mustard, or stick a finger down the throat; these methods are ineffective and potentially dangerous. * When NOT to induce vomiting. Do not induce vomiting if the animal is lethargic, unconscious, convulsing, having a seizure or is in shock. Do not induce vomiting if the animal ingested an acidic or alkaline product such as drain cleaner, household cleansers and paint thinner. Caustic and corrosive substances can burn the throat and stomach on the way back up, compounding the injury. Also, do not induce vomiting for ingestion of tranquilizers, bones, sharp objects or petroleum products such as gasoline or lighter fluid. * If the ingested substance was gasoline, kerosene, an acid or alkali, or a corrosive: Try to give the animal milk to dilute the toxin in the stomach. * If you know the substance was an acid: First, rinse the mouth. Then feed the dog Milk of magnesia or Pepto Bismol using bulb syringe or eyedropper aimed the back of the mouth. Dose 2 teaspoons per 5 pounds of body weight. (For cats, 1 teaspoon Milk of magnesia per 5 pounds; do not give Pepto Bismol to cats, although Kaopectate is OK.) This helps neutralize the chemicals and reduce the burn. * If you know the substance was an akali: First, rinse the mouth. Then mix a tablespoon vinegar with a tablespoon of water and feed the mixture to your pet using a bulb syringe or eyedropper aimed at the back of the mouth. An alternate solution is 1 tablespoon lemon juice mixed with 1 teaspoon of sugar. This helps neutralize the chemicals and reduce the burn. Note: Since cats groom themselves, they can ingest poisons such as sprays that get on their fur. So be sure to wash the pet’s fur. Remember, for any poisoning, get to the vet as soon as possible. Temporary first aid measures alone are not enough. * Wounds: Be careful, since any animal in pain may try to bite. Muzzle your pet by using a strip of soft cloth, gauze, rope, necktie or nylon stocking. Gently wrap around the nose, under the chin and tie behind the ears. Do not obstruct breathing. A towel placed around the head will help control small pets. Wash your hands if possible to avoid further contamination. Wear gloves if you have them. Carefully check the wound. Clip the fur back as needed to clear the area around the wound. Clean out debris using ample amounts of saline, balanced electrolyte solution or Betadine antibacterial scrub (or Betadine solution diluted with water to the color of tea). If these are not available, use regular water. After irrigating the wound, apply antibiotic ointment such as Neosporin to the wound. Note: Do not pour hydrogen peroxide into an open wound; it is better for wounds that have become infected. Do not use alcohol on wounds, as it damages tissue and retards healing. Wrap open wounds to keep them clean. Make sure bandages are not cutting off circulation; in most cases, it’s best to wrap lightly. Change bandages frequently to aid in healing, gently re-applying antibiotic ointment as needed. As soon as you finish treating the wound, loosen or remove the muzzle. Bite wounds often become infected, so call your veterinarian, who may dispense prescription antibiotics. Another home remedy for treating wounds: mix 1 teaspoon Epsom salt in 2 cups of warm water and soak to draw out infection. If the Wound is Bleeding: Place clean gauze or fabric over the wound and apply firm, direct pressure over the bleeding area until the bleeding stops. For serious bleeding, hold the pressure for at least 10 straight minutes, since continually releasing the pressure to check the wound will hamper clotting. When bleeding stops, continue with the steps in the previous section. Avoid tourniquets unless absolutely necessary. If you must apply one, consider this information from http://www.dog.com/vet/firstaid/01.html: Apply a tourniquet between the heart and the wound if the bleeding is coming from an artery and on the side away from the heart if it is coming from a vein. Arterial blood is bright red, tends to spurt out with significant force, and pulses with each heart beat as it bleeds. Venous blood (blood from a vein) is dark red and may flow rapidly but does not actually spurt or pulse. Because venous blood is on its way back to the heart from the rest of the body, the tourniquet is applied below or "distal to" the wound, i.e., if the wound is on a leg, the tourniquet is applied on the side closer to the foot. Make the tourniquet just tight enough to stop most of the bleeding. Loosen it every 10 to 15 minutes for 5 to 10 seconds to allow the blood to circulate again into the extremity. You can use almost any cloth, rope, sock, or stocking as a tourniquet, as long as it is long enough to go around the extremity and be tied securely. * Puncture Wounds: Clean the wound and the surrounding skin with an antibacterial solution such as Betadine, applying by dabbing with a gauze pad. Use warm damp compresses for puncture wounds, since you want to delay formation of a scab that could seal the infection in under the skin. This will also increase blood flow to the wound area, which aids healing. It is recommended not to bandage over puncture wounds. * Paw Treatment: A home remedy for treating paw pad and other wounds: mix iodine and water to the point at which it looks like tea. Add some Epsom salt to clean out the wound and bandage it with gauze. You can also apply Bag Balm to help chaffed and injured paws heal. Put on a dog bootie or small sock to protect injured paw pads. * Burns (chemical, electrical, or heat): Symptoms include singed fur, blistering, swelling, redness of skin. Flush burns immediately with lots of cool, running water. Apply an ice pack for 15 to 20 minutes. Do not place an ice pack directly on the skin. Instead, wrap the pack in a light towel or cloth. Neutralize acid on skin by rinsing with a solution of baking soda and water. Neutralize alkali substances with a weak vinegar-water solution. Blot dry, apply antibiotic ointment and tape gauze dressing loosely around the affected area. Olive oil can also be applied. Brush off any dry chemicals that are on the skin. Beware, water may activate some dry chemicals. Call your veterinarian immediately. * Choking: Signs include pawing at the mouth, gagging, gasping, breathing difficulty, odd neck posture, abnormal gum color (blue, gray, white), unconsciousness. Open the mouth and try to pull out the tongue to check for an obstruction. Sweep inside with a finger if you cannot see anything. If you see or feel the object, remove it if you can do this without causing throat trauma. If you can’t clear the airway or the animal is struggling, hold the pet upside down by his back legs if you can. Or use a Heimlich-type maneuver and push up with your fist held under the animal’s belly, just behind the ribcage. Do not apply too much force or you can injure the animal. Go to the vet ASAP. * Drowning: To resuscitate, place your pet on a flat surface, open his mouth, pull the tongue forward, and clear away any debris in his mouth. If he is still in distress, hold him by his hind legs and gently swing him back and forth in an attempt to clear the water from his lungs and stomach. If the pet is too large to lift, place him on his side and press upward on his midsection or abdomen. If necessary, perform the Heimlich-like maneuver described in the “Choking” section, and take him to the nearest vet. * Electrocution: Signs include panting, breathing difficulty, a burn across the lips and tongue, and/or unconscious. It can happen if the pet chews on a power cord. Before touching the animal, turn off power to the outlet and then unplug the cord. Next, if the animal is conscious, rinse his mouth with cold water. Then perform rescue breathing using mouth-to-snout resuscitation if the pet is not breathing but does have a pulse...or cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR) if he is not breathing and has no pulse. See instructions for these life-saving techniques in the online brochures listed in the next section). Wrap the pet in a blanket to help prevent shock, and take him to the vet immediately (you could perform resuscitation in the car if someone else drives). Go to the vet even if your pet seems OK, since electrocution can lead to serious internal problems that may not be evident for awhile. Also, check the mouth for lesions for 3 weeks. * The ABC’s -- Airway, Breathing, Circulation: If your pet is not breathing but does have a pulse, you need to perform rescue breathing using mouth-to-snout resuscitation immediately. If your pet is not breathing and has no pulse, you must perform CPR immediately. Here are web links to essential life-saving brochures about rescue breathing and pet CPR. Print out 2 copies for your home and car travel kit so you will be ready in an emergency situation: http://members.aol.com/henryhbk/acpr.html http://www.rescuecritters.com/cpr.html * Insect Bites and Stings: Remove stinger with tweezers or by gently scraping away with a plastic card. Bathe the area with a solution of baking soda and water, then apply ice packs (lined with a towel or cloth) for 5 minutes at a time. Some people treat stings with Benadryl. Typical dosages: for cats and dogs under 30 pounds, give 10 mg...dogs 30 to 50 pounds, give 25 mg...dogs over 50 pounds, give 50 mg. For more Insect/Skin Remedies, see the link listed at the end. Stings and bites can cause severe reactions. If there is major swelling, or the animal seems disoriented, sick or has trouble moving or breathing, go to the vet immediately. * Itching, Poison Ivy, Rashes: A good tip for soothing human as well as pet skin is to apply a mixture of baking soda and water to the affected areas. Also, mix 1 teaspoon of Epsom salt in 2 cups of warm water to bathe itchy paws and skin. * Foxtails: These barbed seeds from dried grasses and weeds can be easily inhaled by dogs. They can lodge between toes and in ears, eyes, nostrils, mouth and throat, and can even travel through orifices deeper into body, causing infections and abscesses. Check your dog thoroughly after hiking for foxtails, ticks, etc. If your dog is frantically pawing his nose, ears or eyes, shaking or rubbing his head, sneezing for long periods, biting at his anus or has blood coming from his nose, take him to a vet. * Shock: Symptoms include irregular breathing and dilated pupils. Shock can occur due to a serious injury or fright. Keep the animal gently restrained, quiet and warm, with the lower body elevated. Call your veterinarian immediately. * Heat Stroke Prevention and Treatment: To protect your pet from heat stroke, review the Summer Health and Safety tipsheet on the PAW website. Heat stroke can be brought on by activity as well as confinement outside in the heat, and the effects can be devastating. Be aware of the signs of heat stroke: ** Excessive panting ** Labored breathing that may signal upper airway obstruction ** Bright red mucous membranes in the gums or eyes and/or bright red tongue ** Lethargy and weakness ** High body temperature ** Collapsing and seizures, even coma If you notice any of these signs, get your pet inside and place a cool, wet towel over him or submerge him in cool or lukewarm water. Do not use ice, which can damage skin. Take your pet’s temperature using a rectal thermometer. If the animal’s temperature exceeds 105 F, get medical attention at once. Provide drinking water, but do not force an animal to drink. You can apply rubbing alcohol on the skin as a cooling agent. FYI, dogs cool themselves by panting; this draws air over the moist membranes of the nose and tongue and cools by evaporation. But panting works only for short periods. Prolonged panting endangers the metabolic system. In addition, high humidity interferes with the ability of panting to cool the body. * This information is not a substitute for veterinary care. Contact your veterinarian or emergency animal hospital immediately for any potentially serious injury, condition or illness.